For this May/June holiday I have no clear idea of where to go. Covid is still very much a thing and I do not want to venture too far. Well, who knew that Albania would have so much to offer?  I buy a plane ticket and book three nights’ accommodation in Tirana to start with. Other than that I have no plans and no clear idea where I want to go and what I want to see. I love the spontaneity and relaxed atmosphere of this “slow travel” trip. I am simply following wherever my feet guide me; or rather, where the next bus takes me.

Tirana

I start my trip in Tirana. The city has a lot to offer and I love discovering the different areas, monuments, the history and the culture. It is fun to walk around and to slowly get my bearings. The walking tour on my first day is a good introduction to the city: socialist monuments, byzantine mosques, museums, and the everyday street life. I get some useful background information to everything that I see.

I am mostly alone, exploring something different every day. A trip to the turtle sanctuary outside of the city with a local woman is a welcome change and my first trip into the countryside. We have a delicious dinner while observing the turtles crawling around us and stay by the fire pit for a long time after it already gets dark. At the end of the night the fireflies guide us back to the city.

I am excited to see more of the country.

Berat

After leaving Tirana my next stop is Berat. I have heard a few things about the „city of a thousand windows“, which have made me curious to continue my trip south. My accommodation is on the other side of the river in Gorica and offers beautiful views of the castle and the famous houses underneath. The castle is also my first stop after dropping off my backpack. The view is beautiful and sitting up here I feel like I am on top of the world. I find a quiet spot and sit, look and listen for a while. It is so peaceful: birds are chirping and lizards race across the stones in the hot midday sun.

Walking up and down through the cobblestone lanes of the old quarter is so much fun. You never know what you find around the next corner. The wooden balconies overhang the paths, potted plants adorn some of the doors and sometimes you have to back-trace your steps because you ended up in a cul-de-sac. A small restaurant, which a friend recommended, offers delicious home-made food and only has a few tables in a small courtyard. Even though I am eating alone I enjoy the atmosphere and the fact that I am free to observe everything around me.

Gjirokaster

I continue south to Gjirokaster.  The older part of the town is nestled against the mountain side. The cobblestone streets are steep and offer great views of the castle and the valley of the Vjosa River. In the morning I have my breakfast on the roof terrace with a spectacular view of the castle. It makes for a wonderful start into the day and I am already looking forward to discovering more.

My first stop is the castle. I like strolling between the ruins, through the high grass, where lizards and butterflies live. The views over the wide Vjosa valley are beautiful. The villages are all more at the foot of the snow-covered mountains, away from the river.

Apart from the castle and strolling through the city, I also visit the Skenduli House. I love the byzantine houses, their style and layout. This one in particular gives a good impression of how people used to live around here.

Permët

The river Vjosa is titled to be the last free flowing wild river of Europe. I stop in Permët to see it. As I hike up the mountain the views of the River and the plain are ever changing. The heat is tough today as I continue to walk up to the Mount Djembel pass. There is not a lot of shade as I pass a few horses and cows. The wild flowers bloom everywhere and make this hike a special one. Shade is at times hard to find, but under a tree I find a nice spot and I stop for my lunch break; the view over the valley is spectacular from here. I bought Byrek and cherries (because of the language barrier I ended up with a kilo of cherries, half of which I am eating today and the other half is for tomorrow).

I continue on in steep serpentines. Along the way I meet a few hikers but otherwise I am alone. Down from the pass on the other side I spot wild Primroses. They are deep red and look a little out of place as I only know them from gardens. I pass through birch forests and continue steeply down the path. The views, the smells, the sounds… it is such a beautiful hike.

As I began my descent from the pass I had picked a walking stick. At some point I hear sheep bells in the distance and dogs barking and I am glad that I have my walking stick. Hikers are being warned everywhere about sheep guarding dogs. These two are no different. I have to fend them off with my stick. At the bottom of the mountain I gladly gift my walking stick to the two French hikers I meet.

Thermal Baths

The next day I take the bus to the thermal baths of Bënjë. The hot day is perfect for exploring the sulphur pools that stretch along the canyon. Right now I share the pools only with a few Albanian pensioners if at all. The small pool directly by the ottoman bridge is my favourite. Figs grow along the stony pool border and provide some shade. I slowly walk into the valley. I pass several hot pools and I stop at each and every one of them.

The river is cold and I wish I had shoes to wear as I continue walking up the canyon. Even so, I go slowly and love the views. At times the gorge is very narrow and it is an adventure to walk in this spectacular nature. Before I get on the bus in the late afternoon I lounge around the warm sulphur pools with views of the bridge and the snowy mountains in the background. This day can certainly be added to my collection of beautiful days spent on this holiday.

Albanian Riviera – Ksamil

Coming from the Southern mountains I only briefly stop in Sarandë before heading to the very south of Albania in Ksamil. There are lots of small coves and beaches. In summer it gets very crowded here, they say. But now, at the beginning of June, it is still pretty quiet. I’m fascinated by the intense colour of the water. The turquoise water combined with the white beaches and the lush greenery is spectacular.

Every morning I enjoy my swim before breakfast. Usually I’m not a „lounging by the beach all day“-kind of person, but here I can get used to it. Also because this holiday has been very active so far, I enjoy my leisure time filled with reading, swimming, talking to my neighbour and seafood dinners.

In between, I visit the archaeological site of Butrint. The different monuments are spread out over the peninsula and I love strolling through the lush forest in between. I feel like a true explorer discovering walls and buildings.

Turtles swim in the little natural ponds. I spend the afternoon sitting on a low wall by the lake having lunch and reading. A snake swims by the shore, dragonflies chase each other and I listen to the concert of the cicadas.

Albanian Riviera – Himarë

Himarë is my next stop along the Albanian Riviera. It’s quieter than Ksamil and I hike along the coast to the smaller beaches that are less accessible. Unfortunately, there is a lot of trash at the beaches here as well. But if I sit looking out over the turquoise water then I can blend it out a little. One of the beaches is only accessible through climbing down the steep coast with the help of a rope. I have the whole beach to myself for the day and cannot believe my luck. This feels very much like a holiday. I love it here.

Valbona to Theth

If asked about „the hike“ in Albania people always tell you that you have to do the Theth to Valbona hike. From Shkoder I go on a three day round trip to the mountains. The ferry ride across the Komani Lake is already spectacular. At first it is still cloudy, but later the sun comes out and the emerald water shines against the blue sky and the imposing grey mountains. The views are so beautiful. I could stay on the ferry and on this sparkling emerald lake for the rest of the day.

The next morning I start early on my hike. The first eight kilometres I follow along the road to the end of the valley. It starts out as paved and after a while it turns into a 4×4 road with river crossings. The snowy mountain range draws nearer and looks more imposing with every step I take.

At the end of the valley I start the long ascend to the pass. Past the 1400 meter mark I encounter the first snow. Even though it is June there is still snow covering the pass. I picked a walking stick yesterday because I had anticipated this. My feet are quickly getting wet, but it is so worth it. Every few hundred meters I stop, take a short break and enjoy the view. It is still a good way up to the top. The path is very steep now and I have to be very careful with my footing in the snow. The feeling of standing on top of the pass is incredible. I can now look towards Valbona valley as well as into Theth valley.

Before I start with the long descend to Theth I have my lunch break. It feels good to relax my muscles a bit and to sit for a while.  The path down is snow free and easy to follow. I meet so many people going up to the pass and I feel proud of my accomplishment today. After seven and a half hours I walk up to the Guest House. The British couple, who I have met on the hike today, is here as well and we end up spending a nice evening together full of talking and marvelling at the mountains around us.

Theth is a beautiful mountain village. The stacks of drying hay remind me a bit of the Swiss mountains and the little church looks picturesque in the middle of the fields and with the snowy mountains in the back.  Before my bus leaves at noon, I walk around the village and to a nearby waterfall.

I had a wonderful time in the Albanian mountains and loved that I got to do this hike before my holiday ends.

Shkoder

Coming back from the mountains I spend the last couple of days in and around Shkoder. The town has a nice size and is easy to navigate. My first stop is the Rozafa castle. The view from here is beautiful. The snowy mountains rise to the one side behind the Shkodra Lake and to the other side the Mediterranean shimmers in the distance. I stroll between the ruins and am a little sad that I did not come here for the sunset, which is supposed to be even more beautiful.

Walking through the pedestrian streets in the evenings when it has cooled off a little, is a nice way to see the city and the locals. I grab a drink in a bar and observe the world passing by. The lights come on and illuminate the old houses.

Shkodra Lake is the biggest lake in the Balkans and almost feels like a sea. The views around are so beautiful. Pomegranate and olive trees line the narrow road along the shore. Most of the time the lake lies quietly and just a few loons or seagulls pierce the quiet. The snowy mountains to the other side provide the perfect backdrop. I could stay here for days…