It is December 2019 and I am excited to find out where I will be spending Christmas. This year it is going to be in Tehran. It will be my first time there and I am really looking forward to exploring the city a bit.

From my hotel room I can see the mountains to one side and the big city of Tehran to the other. Also the bus station by the highway is within my view. I love being in a new city, a new country, a new culture and trying to figure out the way everything works. A mix of the internet, my trusted offline map and the helpful concierge give me a good head start. Women get on in the front of the bus, men in the back. After a few stops I switch to the Metro. The air is thick with smog and quite a number of people wear masks. My little electronic badge with the public transport ticket is going to serve me well over the next couple of days. In the female metro car you can buy socks, jewellery and make-up among other things. Coat hangers are easily hung on the handrails and display the wares on offer. I feel honoured to get a glimpse of the everyday life.

Over the next couple of days I visit some of the sights in the city. I admire the Golestan palace with its beautiful architecture and mosaics. I pass mosques, churches and a synagogue. I see the big graffiti wishing death upon Iran’s enemies as well as houses covered with Persian scenes and current politicians.  I enjoy walking through the streets and discovering a city on foot. There is a bank on almost every street corner. And I find a street food area close to a park.

The different bazaars are among my favourite places. I love strolling through the narrow and crowded alleyways. There is so much noise, so much to see and discover. As in any good bazaar you can buy anything you wish. I am always on the lookout for fabric and Tehran does not disappoint. I add a beautiful pillowcase to my growing international collection of blue pillows. Dried fruits, pistachios, tea and spices are going to be my Christmas gifts this year.

I want to dedicate a special chapter to the people of Tehran. I met so many wonderful people who all shared a bit of their life with me. An elderly man practices his German with me on a park bench at the Golestan palace. We talk about life in Iran and Germany, about cars, the school system and much more. On the bus young women ask me where I am from and we talk about university. In the bazaar many people are interested where we are from and what we are doing in Iran. Thank you for such a warm welcome.

In the evenings the crew meets up and we go somewhere for dinner. Everyone shares where they have been and what they have done during the day. It is a lovely way to end the day and we talk and laugh a lot. Food is so delicious here. Every night we enjoy a big spread and share. Being away from home for one of the major holidays brings us closer and makes this layover extra special.

Der Beitrag Christmas in Tehran erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

I am starting this blog post sitting in a café in Knightsbridge. My little table on the first floor offers a splendid view of Brompton Road and the busy pre-Christmas activities in front of Harrods. I escaped to London for two days. I want to visit a good friend of mine and enjoy London’s Christmas spirit.

My alarm woke me at 4.30am, however, taking the first Heathrow flight was totally worth it as I get off the tube at Notting Hill Gate at 9 o’clock. It is grey and windy, but dry. I walk down the streets and admire the colourful houses. I stop for breakfast in a small café and enjoy a cup of Earl Grey and The Guardian. I love Notting Hill. Later I continue through Holland Park to Kensington and Belgravia. My favourite places are the little hidden Mews. A lot of the front doors are decorated. And even in winter I like looking at the little gardens and potted plants in front of the doorsteps. Sometimes I get glimpses through the windows and see Christmas trees.

My walk continues and brings me to the Thames. The view of the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben and further down the river is nice, even though it is a bit grey and gloomy. Slowly the lights come on and the Christmas decorations glow in the streets. Shop windows are beautifully decorated; street lanterns are wrapped in banners and Christmas trees stand on street corners.

I want to stop at Fortnum and Mason before I meet my friend for dinner. Just as I want to enter I hold the door open for a livered doorman carrying a mountain of bags for a lady and depositing everything in a taxi. Her answer to his question where she would like to go is “The Ritz”. I love the ground floor with its hectic atmosphere, the tee caddies and the liveried shop assistants. A trip to London is not complete without a stop at Fortnum and Mason, several bookshops and the fabric floor at Liberty’s.

On my way to Covent Garden I pass the Christmas market on Leicester Square. It is not as grand and atmospheric as the big German markets, but it is sweet and lots of people stand around with mulled wine and something to eat.

The next day even starts with a little sunshine. Apparently I walked 25 kilometres yesterday and I plan on making the most of today as well. I love the busy atmosphere in the morning. People are on the way to the tube and work, delivery vans clog the streets, bicycles whizz past.

Persephone Books is a little book shop that I like to stop at when I am in London. I have found interesting books by female authors here before and today does not disappoint. I happily carry my new book under my arm as I exit the little shop into the sunshine. I walk past the British Museum and on to Marylebone. I can never pass Wimpole Street without smiling. I half expect Eliza Doolittle to come around the corner. But I continue on to the Daunt Bookshop. I have a weak spot for a beautiful interior combined with lovely books. It is so lovely to walk down the busy High Street and observe people doing their Christmas shopping. Everything is decorated and feels very much like Christmas is around the corner.

My lunch break at a small Deli allows me to sit down for a bit and rest my feet and continue writing. What a wonderful thing that I found these two days in busy December to experience “Christmas in London”. And now with the sunshine it feels even more special. The Christmas wreaths on the doors sparkle in the sunlight.

I already mentioned Liberty’s as one of those must-visit-places. The soft floral fabrics are simply beautiful. I could stay here for a long time just observing the customers and shop assistants interacting. This is certainly one of my happy places.

Oxford Street, Regent’s Street, and the Burlington Arcade everything is decorated and as it gets darker now all the lights begin to glow. A man plays violin at Piccadilly Circus and the music floats with me down the steps into the underground. I had a lovely time in London, but now it is time to take the tube back to the airport and take the last flight back to Frankfurt.

Der Beitrag A December Trip to London erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

The last couple of times I stayed in the city and this time I want to take the bus out to the MacRitchie Reservoir. The sun is shining as I am heading towards the green lung of the city state.

From the boardwalk along the lake shore I can observe the monkeys above me swinging from tree to tree as well as the turtles and fishes swimming past. Butterflies sail past me and the cicadas give a concert. A small snake lies in front of me on the boards. She is so beautiful with redish-brown markings.

It is Monday morning and I like that I see only few people. From the Jelutong Tower I have a good view over the tree canopies. A slight breeze is blowing up here. That is very welcome. On the railing rests a little green tree snake. She is even more beautiful than the first snake I saw today.

The 12 kilometre loop is mainly in the forest. Being out in the nature is wonderful. After the full flight and the many people in Chinatown it is so nice to enjoy the peace and quiet out here. Sitting on a bench looking over the lake I listen to a podcast and let my mind wander.

Of course, I have to stop by the Mustafa Centre today. A friend of mine asked me if I could buy her some fabric and I take my time choosing. I love the feel of the fabrics, the colours, the small aisles, the stacks of fabric everywhere…

Later I meet a colleague in Chinatown and we take a walk along the shop houses. There are so many cute little shops and cafés. We just stroll along and get lost in the little lanes, catch our breath in Ann Siang Hill Park and continue on. A refreshing matcha latte is just what we need after this. I love these moments of crew life. We might not know each other very well, but often enough we easily fall into conversation and can talk for hours.

Der Beitrag Singapore, my love 4 erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

I am once more heading to San Francisco. On our inbound flight it was unusually clear over the bay area. We got to see Sausalito, the Golden Gate Bridge, Downtown SF and also Silicon Valley…. I always love the bird’s view from planes and seeing the city and the ocean in clear weather today felt extra special. What a start to this layover.

On my day off I want to go hiking in the Marin Headlands. Hiking around San Francisco is always so much fun. I love getting out of the city. This time I’m revisiting my favourite hike so far. On route lies the marine mammal rehabilitation centre. A year ago I observed wild otters for the very first time in my life and as I walked across the Golden Gate Bridge I saw seals and further out a group of dolphins! It was such a beautiful day and I want to recreate a bit of that magic this layover.

It is still dark as I board the northbound bus out of the city. A few stops past the Golden Gate Bridge I get off and start climbing the hill. Through the tall Eucalyptus trees the path winds up the hill. I love the smell, the light, the forest sounds. The sun is just climbing over the horizon and illuminates everything in deep golden light. It is magical. I feel like I am the only person on earth.

I follow the path through shrubs. At some point I catch a glimpse of the San Francisco’s skyline. The birds are chirping and rabbits are crossing in front of me. The spider webs are coated in raindrops sparkling in the early sunlight. Some joggers are up here disappearing quickly after a “hello”. Last year I encountered a snake catching the first warming rays of sunshine. For a while it lay in front of me not wanting to move. It was a very special experience.

The path slowly descends towards the Pacific. The mighty ocean lies in front of me. I can already hear its roar but I cannot yet see it. I love the plants here. It smells like wild thyme. The view of Rodeo Beach and a few surfers accompany my descent down to the beach.

Last year I visited the Marine Mammal Centre. It is the largest Rehabilitation Centre and cares for animals found along the West Coast. One of the volunteers gave me a tour and explained the work that goes into nursing the animals back to life. From the viewing platform I got to see some of their patients. It was a really interesting stop on my hike.

Today I continue along the beach. I cannot tire of the ocean views, the sound of the waves crashing against the rock beneath me. The sun feels warm on my skin and it is just beautiful. The last of my lunch crumbs are picked up by a blue jay. He searches around for things I might have dropped. Now there are more people around visiting the World War II batteries and of course snapping photos of the Golden Gate Bridge and the city.

With every corner I round, the bridge gets closer and closer. The many viewpoints offer spectacular views of the bridge and the Bay Area. I love how every time I get a little closer I can make out more and more details. The rusty red shines in the sun.

Compared to everyone else who just drives from viewpoint to viewpoint I get to experience it more covering the distance on my own two feet. This way I also see the coyote sitting higher up the hill observing everything that is going on at the parking spaces.

The last highlight today is actually crossing the bridge. I put on my jacket again because over the water it is windy. It is quite a distance to get to the other side. I observe the sail boats passing underneath and a big container ship is making its way into the Bay Area. The ferries are crossing to Alcatraz and Angel Island. By the time I reach the bus stop at the other side I have walked over 25 kilometres and my feet are tired. I finish my water and the last of the trail mix as I wait for bus to arrive. What a wonderful day! Such a sunny gift.

Der Beitrag Hiking in San Francisco erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Hello Olivia,

You mentioned wanting to go to Uzbekistan and I thought I might just relate my experience to give you an idea. If you love blue, architecture, tiles, markets… you’re going to love your time along the Silk Road.

So my youngest sister Veronika and I flew to Almaty in Kazakhstan. I have been to Kazakhstan a few times, but it was the first time for her. It was a really relaxed start to our holiday. I know my way around the city and had planned what we could do. The architecture is a mixture of Soviet Russian style houses with Arabic and Chinese influences. The Tin Shan Mountains make for a nice backdrop. In the basement of the Green Bazaar is a small bakery. Every afternoon we stopped there and bought fresh bread right out of the oven. Add a few Samsa (filled bread), cucumbers, figs and apples and we had a wonderful lunch, which we enjoyed on a shaded bench somewhere.

After spending almost 2 days in and around the city we took the night train to Tashkent in Uzbekistan. We slept quite a bit on the train but also had the chance to look out of the window. The slow journey had an almost meditative feel to it. It made for a really good introduction to Uzbekistan. The steppe is very brown and desert like. Every once in a while you see cows, sheep or goats and sometimes small farms or hamlets. Everything is built with mud bricks.

Traveling in general was fun. We found not many people to speak English and if they did, they only knew a few words, much like we don’t know any Russian. But people are very friendly, always helpful and keen on assuring that tourists and guests have a good time. We had so many wonderful encounters and enjoyed ourselves immensely. From Buchara we took a shared taxi to Khiva. The taxis leave from one of the bustleing Bazaar areas. We stood in the shade together with the drivers and waited for our car to fill up. Sadly, we could not communicate much with them. It would certainly have been very interesting to talk to them. At some point we were joined by an elderly lady. She immediately began to talk to us and didn’t care that we didn’t understand her. Some words I had picked up and the rest was filled in by expanding hand gestures. Somehow we made it work.

During those two weeks we ended up traveling by train, both very modern and fast and very old and slow, we took public buses, taxis, shared taxis, collectives and planes and finally
we hiked with a donkey in the mountains.

Our main stops were of course the main cities along the Silk Road: Tashkent, Samarkand, Buchara and Khiva. If you love blue (so many blue tiled buildings), Arabic architecture, Central Asian bazaars, good food (though a bit meat centred)… Uzbekistan is for you. We had a wonderful time. Every day brought something new. The history of these places is fascinating and so old. At some point these lands belonged to the Persian realm and then to the Mongols. Then they created their own kingdom and expanded it all the way to India and Istanbul and Moscow. You can see these influences in the people, the customs, the food and the buildings. The countryside is very dry. Dust is everywhere. And the cities were always built close to an oasis. There, it’s green, there’s agriculture (cotton harvest was in full swing while we were there) and water is flowing. We loved the mix.

We were so in awe of the buildings, the old madrasas (ancient universities) stand so tall and are so intricately decorated, mosques with brick minarets, turquoise tiled domes, highly decorated mausoleums…. And then in the evenings, everything is illuminated. The light show on Samarkand’s Registand place is really something to watch. I’ll attach a few photos for you to get an impression.

Uzbekistan is opening up to more foreign tourists. The infrastructure is slowly building up. We usually stayed in small family run guest houses and felt very welcome. Breakfasts were always a delicious treat. Visitors from a lot of countries don’t need a visa anymore but get a stamp for 30 days at the border. We saw quite a few tour groups. And then there were a few independent travellers, but not so many.

We spent two nights in the mountains and loved the experience. Hiking over the passes that locals use was so cool. Our guide told us many interesting things about the Uzbek everyday life which was very interesting because often we couldn’t talk to the locals. Speaking Russian or even Uzbek would have been really helpful. However, we loved the experience of not being able to speak the language. Somehow it’s amazing what and how you can communicate with people even with the language barrier. We met so many wonderful locals and felt so welcome.

It was a bit of an adventure holiday and we loved every second of it. So many people asked us how we came up with Uzbekistan as our choice of holiday. To be honest I don’t even know. I think I saw photos of Khiva somewhere on Facebook and thought the Silk Road, that’s an idea….

Warm greetings from Khiva, Susanne

Der Beitrag Uzbekistan erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

The golden church tower sparkles in the late afternoon sun. The blue and white hues of the buildings shine through the streets. It’s day three of a four day tour and it’s one of those short layovers. We only get to the hotel late in the afternoon. But I’m not the only one who feels like going out for a bit, taking in the warm August evening. We meet for dinner and enjoy a mix of modern and traditional Ukrainian dishes. We laugh, we exchange stories, and we have a really good time. This is part of the crew life that I adore so much.

After dinner the sun is setting. We are strolling through the streets. Though we are tired from a long day, we are enchanted by the atmosphere. There are people everywhere enjoying the balmy summer air. Couples stroll past wonderfully restored buildings. A nearby park offers an amazing view over parts of the city. The lights are slowly coming on as twilights sets in. It is slowly getting darker and the white stucco of the church across the square begins to glow in the dark. As I set my alarm for 4 o’clock I snuggle into bed and dream of the short, but wonderful stop in Kiev….

Der Beitrag An evening stroll through Kiev erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

New York is always special. I love coming here. And sadly I do not do it nearly often enough. My layovers in the Big Apple are short and I always try to make the most of it. I still remember the first time I was here very fondly. I was with two colleagues and we walked all day through Manhattan. It was December and cold and overcast, but I loved every second of it. I guess it is because of the many movies and series set in the city that I felt like I already knew it. The city felt instantly familiar. Happy memories.

Now it is July, I am awake early as I usually am in the US. And I walk the short distance to the Brooklyn Bridge. Walking over the bridge while the sun is rising… It is magical.  There are only very few people around. I feel like I have it all to myself. New York is still strangely quiet. The bridge and Manhattan are shining golden as the sun rises higher.  The brick looks as if it

is lit from within. The metal construction leaves intricate shadow patterns on the old wooden boards. The skyscrapers on the other side reflect the early morning sun light. Later I join the queue to the Staten Island Ferry with all the commuters going to work. The Hudson River lays completely quiet and deep blue and Lower Manhattan sparkles in the sunlight. I love being on the water and the unique view it offers of the city. What a beautiful start to the day. It promises to be a sunny, happy day in New York City today.

Der Beitrag Sunrise in New York erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

t’s been a long time, but I’m finally flying to Japan again. The last time I’ve been in Nagoya was in 2015. The flight is long but I feel surprisingly energetic after our arrival. I ignore the fact that it’s 2 o’clock in the morning in Germany and head out to explore a bit of the city.

The streets are lined with colourful signs. Restaurants display their menus in thee windows. I love how real the modelled dishes look. It’s hot in July and when I come across a park I sit down on a bench in the shade, listen to the crickets and read my book for a while. Strolling through a 100 Yen shop is a must for me when I’m in Japan. There are so many different things to admire and buy here: some useful, some not so much.

The next morning I’m taking the 6.20am Shinkansen to Kyoto. The trains are incredible. While they accelerate I get pushed into the seat. Not surprising it only takes half an hour to Kyoto. My next train is a “normal” one. And finally from Kamo I take a bus out to Wazuka. Even tight connections are doable in Japan because trains are so punctual all the time. I love looking out the window, taking in the changing landscape.

It is 9 o’clock and I’m in Wazuka, an old tea village. The valley is famous for its green tea which has been cultivated for about 800 years. At some point the Japanese emperor also received his tea from here. These facts I learn from a visit to the tourism bureau.

Wazuka is made up of several little villages: some are down in the valley along the river, others slope up the hills. Everything is bright and fresh and green. Down by the river there are rice fields between the houses. They smell delicious und the fireflies soar through the air. The perfectly shaped tea fields stretch to the top of the surrounding hills. Traditional and modern houses stand side by side. I love the scenery. It all looks magical.

I’m going to rent a bike today, to see the different tea fields. The tourism bureau even has e-bikes. The minute the back road starts climbing up the hills, I fall in love with the electrical help the battery provides. It’s so hot and humid. I’m sweating, but the breeze is lovely. Every once in a while I need to remind myself to drive on the left side of the road. Yellow flowers provide a bit of colour against the intensely green backdrop of the tea fields.

There aren’t many people around. The crickets sing their loud songs. I’m using the small back roads up in the hills. Occasionally I see workers in the tea fields. The road circles through a lush bamboo forest and I welcome the shade. It’s very idyllic here. At one point I see a monkey cross the road. I take a break in the shade, take out my book and simply enjoy sitting by a Japanese tea field on a hot summer day. What a wonderful day.

I have a map of the area, which helps navigate around the valley. Later in the day I take a left and end up cycling a more adventurous track, which is for the small vehicles of the plantation workers so they can access the smaller, more remote fields. I cycle along a small river through the forest. It’s wonderfully cool here. After a while I get back onto the main road. Even here there aren’t many cars passing me.

The tea harvest starts in April. Some of the fields have already been harvested and are darker green. Others are still bright green as they haven’t been harvested yet. This makes for a nicely coloured contrast.

I don’t know what I like better: the tea fields in the hills or the rice fields in the valley. I cool my legs in one of the watering canals for the rice fields. 37 degrees Celsius and 86% humidity is hot.

Before I return my bike I stop at a small café. I’ve got to try the tea from the area of course. Iced Matcha is THE perfect refreshment after cycling and sweating a lot today.

During the day I noticed that some tea fields had the tea bushes covered in black foil. Here in the café/shop I learn why. Gyokuro tea is of the highest quality because the young leaves get protected from the sun. That makes the tea very mild and aromatic. Some of the other types of tea planted in this valley are Sencha, Matcha, Hojicha and Kabusecha.

My return journey to Nagoya starts with the bus again. One last look onto the tea fields… Then I take the slower trains via Kameyama. The landscape is dominated by rice fields and villages. The sun is setting and everything shimmers golden. What a wonderful day I have had!!

Der Beitrag A trip to Japanese Teafields  erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Dear Kara,

I’m sitting at the gate waiting to board my flight to San José, Costa Rica…

I’m really excited and can’t wait to get started. It’s a mix of excitement and a bit of anxiousness. I haven’t been to Central America yet. It’s going to be an adventure holiday. I don’t have a fixed tour, just some ideas of what I want to see and I will plan as I go along. My guide book, the internet and recommendations by other travellers will be my best companions on this trip. Off I go…

Costa Rica is a treasure. You would love it too. Yes, it’s quite popular with its fair share of tourists. But now at the beginning of the rainy season there are fewer people. It’s easy to travel around the country by bus and the people are so friendly. The nature and animals are simply stunning. And the week here passed really quickly. Volcanos, lush green forests, monkeys, sloths, quetzals… Lots of hiking and animal spotting… What a way to start my four week holiday. After spending just a night in San José I took a bus to Manuel Antonio and 24 hours after I’ve set out from home I’m sitting at a beach in Costa Rica listening to the waves, having the rain forest as a backdrop and the howler monkeys as an orchestra.

I love animal encounters and the cheeky lizard in the National Park joined me on my early morning breakfast. I found a secluded cove and sat down on a tree trunk eating my banana. I thoughtlessly put the peel next to me when suddenly a male lizard comes charging towards me and snatches the banana peel. I later find out that the lizards, as well as the monkeys, love to steal food or even go through the visitors’ backpacks.

My next stop is the Arenal volcano. The next few days are going to be rainy, but I find a group of travellers and we make the most of the volcano area and the cloud forest in Monteverde. My shoes are soaked by the end of my stay in Costa Rica and I am looking forward to the warmth of Nicaragua.

Today I’m on the bus heading on to Nicaragua. By the end of my trip I will have become a pro at crossing borders in Central America. Emigration, immigration, exit and entrance fees… Granada looks a bit like a run-down sister of Cartagena in Colombia. It’s not big but I loved strolling through the streets, eating good food. Right next to our hostel is a church and the football playing boys take a dollar for the climb up the church tower. The view is wonderful and especially early in the morning or at sunset you have good views.

There are a few day tours you can do. My favourite tour was the one to Masaya volcano. You can actually see the red lava boiling at the bottom of the crater. The sound is indescribable, a bit like the ocean, but way more feral. We went there for the sunset and as it gets darker the red glow intensifies. It’s magical. I haven’t seen anything like it.

And so after a week in Nicaragua I travel on to Guatemala. This time I opt for the easy solution and hop on a flight. My first day in the country spent in Antigua could not have been better. The city is beautiful. The highlands here remind me a bit of the South-American Andes. The people look more like that and the traditional clothes are also similar. I could just stroll through the streets forever and the rooftop terrace on my hostel is the perfect spot for taking in the mountain panorama.

The Acatenango hike was one of the toughest hikes I’ve done so far. It’s all uphill and then the altitude. But seeing the neighbouring Fuego volcano erupting and the lava flying was just unbelievable. It gets really magical once it starts getting dark. The orange lava flies into the dark night sky and crashes on the side of the mountain every few minutes. It’s an experience for the senses: sitting around the camp fire with a hot cup of tea, seeing the lava spew, hearing the explosions… On clear days you can also see the volcano erupting from Antigua.

Another chicken bus ride later and I’m at Lago Atitlán. It is unbelievably relaxing. The little villages around the lake are all a bit different and unique. Walking between them, at certain angles, it reminds me of Switzerland or the Northern Italian lakes. The sunrise here is magical. The lake lies breathtakingly still in front of us as the sun rises over the volcanoes.

From there on I go on to the Mayan ruins of Tikal. This is something that I’ve wanted to see for a very long time. The ruins are in the middle of the jungle and from the highest temples you have spectacular views. I spent a whole day strolling through the jungle surrounding the ruins and loved every minute of it. The birds, the monkeys, the jungle taking back what’s theirs.

And then I go on to Belize. For the end of my trip I’ve been dreaming of a Caribbean island… white sands and palm trees… Belize has the second largest reef after the Australian Great Barrier Reef. It makes for fantastic snorkelling. I enjoy myself and pass the days swimming, reading, relaxing, eating lobster in the evening… What can I say; my stay on Caye Caulker was magical and soooo relaxing.

I’ve had such a wonderful time. This holiday ranks among the top ones. The things I’ve done and seen… I’ve met so many wonderful people, locals as well as travellers. Traveling around Central America has been such a joy. People have been super helpful and friendly.

I’ve been writing this email while traveling. Now I’m sitting at the gate again waiting to board my flight back home. I can’t stress enough what a wonderful time I’ve had. Once again I feel reminded of how wonderful life can be.

Sending you hugs and kisses,

Susanne

Der Beitrag A trip through Central America erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

I am in Beirut!! I am sitting on my balcony on the sixth floor and look over the city towards the sea. It is 7.30 in the evening and still 18 degrees Celsius. I hear the street noise from down below and the wonderful orthodox chanting from the church across the street has just died down. The moon is shining over the bay. I cannot wait to explore the country over the next couple of days.

The sun is waking me up the next day. Exploring the city is number 1 on my list today. I am starting out in Ashrafieh, my quarter. Old houses, ranging from beautifully renovated to falling apart, are standing next to newer apartment buildings.

Mosques are standing next to churches and roman ruins. I’m strolling along the roads and alleys. If I like the feeling of a certain street I follow it and see where it leads me. I try to avoid the main avenues. Traffic is heavy and loud and slightly chaotic to the untrained eye. The public transport network was never fully rebuilt after the war. Honking taxis, private cars and small minibuses all try to maintain their space on the streets.

Souk El Tayeb is described as Beiruts first Farmers Market. Locals do their shopping here. A mix of Arabic, French and English is spoken. Food, honey, spices, olive oil, bread and so much more is being sold at the stalls. It smells heavenly. I love trying different foods and observing people doing their shopping.

I continue on through the streets and pass the infamous Holiday Inn hotel. The bombed out skeleton still stands as a reminder of the war. During the day I pass a few houses still showing signs of the war. It is a colourful mix of styles and houses in Beirut. Along the Corniche there are many Beirutis enjoying the sun and the sea. A café with direct view of the Raouche rocks is where I spend a part of my afternoon. Feels like holiday….

What a first day. I loved getting to know the city a bit and cannot wait to explore some more over the coming days. Ending the day on my balcony is quickly becoming a ritual. It gets dark and the lights go on in the city. My neighbours and I share oranges and exchange stories.

Souk El Ahab and the Bourj Hammoud quarter are on today’s list. I love seeing all the different parts of the city, chatting with locals and observing customs. At some point I stop at a bakery and buy delicious fig biscuits. At first I am a bit confused by the mixing of the currencies. Lebanese pounds and US dollars can both be used and you sometimes get change back half one currency and half the other. But after a while I memorise the fixed exchange rate and it gets easier.

I am always looking for small cafés and beautiful places to rest for a while. Book cafés hold a very special place in my heart. In Mar Mikael I find a wonderful café and spend quite a bit of time here. It is very relaxing. A perfect Sunday.

I am getting used to the daily power cuts. The schedule on the fridge serves as a daily reminder when the cuts happen. My torch is always by my side and the power bank always charged. Power is something that we take so much for granted. It is educational to live like this for a while. When there is no power I love sitting out on my balcony listening to the city sounds while looking over to the snowy mountains and the Mediterranean.

After two days in Beirut I take the bus up the coast to Byblos, or Jbeil. I need a moment to find the right bus, but once we drive out of the city I love the views of the sea to the left and the mountains to the right.

Byblos is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth. The earliest traces of human settlement are traced back to 6000 BC. Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, crusaders, Mamelukes, Osmans and many more lived here, built and destroyed…

I stroll through the city. After the noise and the traffic fumes of Beirut I feel like I am in the countryside. The smells of orange blossom and jasmine hang in the air. Little alleyways make the old town accessible. Old men sit in the harbour and repair their nets and boats. Restaurants sit on the shore line one next to the other. It feels like a small sea side town. I meet a friend from my flight to Beirut and together we spend a very relaxing day here. We walk through the town and the excavation site, sit on the beach and have delicious food.

Another day trip from Beirut takes me to the mountains. No trip to Lebanon would be complete without seeing the famous cedar trees. And now that I have seen how the public transportation system works I feel more confident in taking the bus to the mountains. Everyone is so helpful and together with my limited Arabic I manage to switch buses and continue on all the way to the El Shouf Reserve.

It is really cold in the mountains. At the coast the temperature was 25 degrees Celsius and now it says 13. I follow the hiking trail and soon I come across the first snow fields. The atmosphere is magical as the cedar trees loom large in the mist. I feel like I am on top of the world and I am the only person there.

Have I mentioned the incredible oranges I have every morning on my balcony for breakfast? Here in Barouk I buy the best ones I had in a long time. So delicious. I chat with the shopkeeper till the bus comes. I have met so many wonderful people here during my stay. It is so interesting to talk to people and get their view on life in Lebanon.

I do not like group tours but today I choose to visit Baalbek, Anjour and Ksara in a small group. After my bus adventures I kind of enjoy leaning back in a minibus and not having to worry about where to get off or what bus to take. Our first stop is a vinery and we learn quite a bit about Lebanese wines and winemaking in the country. Supposedly the Romans already grew vines here. On the Beirut – Damascus road lies Anjour. The city was built because caravan roads intersected here. The snowy mountains serve as a beautiful background. We are a lovely little group and chat quite a bit during the drive.

Through the Beqaa Valley we continue on past military checkpoints to Baalbek. I have seen many Roman ruins around the Mediterranean, but the ones here are incredible. The temples are standing so tall and impressive. I could stay for hours and marvel at the intricate beauty of the walls and columns. The ornaments show the oriental influence. Looking out of the window we get to see quite a bit of Lebanon.

And so I have come to my last day in Beirut. It was an incredible week and I enjoyed it so much. Today I once again walk through the city and visit a few places I have not had the chance to see so far. The National Museum is one of them, also the main mosque and the Zqaq al Blat quarter.

The city offers so many contrasts. I only got a small glimpse of what life is like in Lebanon. I spoke with so many people and loved hearing their stories. All the best to you

Der Beitrag Lebanon erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.