It is always a wonderful flight when taking someone special with me. This Christmas I have the opportunity to take my husband with me to Hong Kong. I have been to the city many times and I cannot wait to show him all that this “city of skyscrapers” has to offer.

The flight is long and it also takes quite a bit of time until we reach the hotel. We enter our hotel room just at the right time for the blue hour. The last light of day lies on the buildings stretching out in front of our window. The lights of the Harbourfront skyscrapers begin to shine across the water. It looks so beautiful. We are eager to change and go out for dinner.

Christmas Dinner

We walk along the waterfront to the next metro station and cross over to Hong Kong Island. Getting off at Central, we immediately dive into the bright lights and the sounds, the masses of people and the smells of restaurants. It is so busy tonight, more so than any other weekend I have experienced in Hong Kong. We walk around a little before we eat at a cute Japanese restaurant in a small side street, followed by a cocktail at a nearby bar. We chat standing by the bar and listening to the live music. It feels wonderful to share this experience  and it is such a beautiful start to our layover.

Victoria Peak & Central

We are awake early and head out to the Victoria Peak fist thing in the morning. The bus ride up to the peak feels like a sightseeing trip already. The double-decker bus manoeuvres the narrow corners and overhanging trees on the way out of the city and up the hill. It is still a bit chilly as we embark on the 3km loop around the peak and the beginning of the trail lies in the shade. We fast-walk, we talk and we enjoy the views to the south. I love the path and how the city slowly comes into view the further we walk around the hill. There is a lot of activity in the container port and the star ferries cross the harbour between the Kowloon side and Hong Kong Island.

Since we want to go to Central for brunch we take the Peak Tram down the hill. At this time of day there are very few people with us on the train and we can sit in the front with unspoiled views of the steep descent into the dense city.

After a delicious brunch we continue on the Mid-level escalators up the hill. It is a funny experience gliding up the hill between the houses. Lots of people are with us on the escalators. The sun comes out and it is really getting warm as we are walking down the hill again. We stop at a small bakery for some dessert before we head for the metro back to our hotel. Jet lag is forcing us to have a siesta before we head out again in the evening.

A walk through Wan Chai

Taking the Star Ferry across the Harbour is such a nice experience. Especially so, if it is in the evening and the sun is setting. The sky is turning pink and the lights of the skyscrapers are slowly coming on. Standing outside on the deck of the ferry, admiring the cityscape on both sides of the water; life can be so beautiful.

On our walk through Wan Chai we come across a small outdoor shopping and restaurant arcade. There are a lot of people for Christmas related activities. We find a spot on the upper floor of a restaurant close by and admire the fake snow falling on the people below. We have another lovely dinner together and sit for quite a while talking and looking out over the people enjoying Christmas.

There are a number of rooftop terraces all over the city and it is not easy to choose one. We end up on an outside terrace enjoying the view over the Harbour and the illuminated skyscrapers. It does get a bit chilly after a while, but until then we admire the light show from up here.

MongKok and the Ladies Market

The mix of jet lag and the desire to see as much as possible during the layover is a fine balance. We have a cosy long brunch today again. We are just sitting together, chatting and having a good time in Tsim Tsa Tsui

Afterwards we stroll through MongKok. I never tire of looking at the big apartment complexes with their laundry hanging outside. The air conditioning units adorn the buildings like art and the busy streets are excellent for watching the world go by.

The Ladies Market is not that busy today. Maybe Christmas has its effect. A few stalls are selling their souvenirs, bags, electronics and more. We simply have a look and continue on our way. The flower market is very busy and offers all kinds of colourful plants. Orchids seem to be the favourite flowers.

Der Beitrag Christmas in Hong Kong erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Dear Kara,

We were swimming in the Mediterranean in front of our house, the sun was shining… and we were talking about packing for our holiday…. We both said that it felt a bit weird talking about our holiday and going away when we live in a holiday place.

But….

Oh my…. we fell in love with La Réunion right away. Have a look at a map. It is part of France, but lies in the Indian Ocean, between Madagascar and Mauritius.

It was already quite a trip to get there… First, we flew to Paris, spent four hours at the airport and then continued overnight for 11 hours to Saint Denis, La Réunion. We loved it, it felt like it was all part of the journey.

What a beautiful island… We love the mix of French and Creole, tropical plants, beautiful beaches and reefs, high mountains, volcanoes…. The island really has it all. What a gem…

Saint Paul & the famous Friday Market

Our first few days we spend in Saint Paul for the big Friday Market. There are lots of different veggies and fruits on offer, sugarcane for rum and vanilla beans. The rum is turned into “rhum arrangé”, fruit infused rum, which is delicious after a meal. The small Victoria pineapples are so sweet and delicious. We have one almost every morning for breakfast. Samoussas are the creole version of the Indian samosas and they are delicious as well, the perfect little snack for in-between.

Of course, there are also souvenirs and handicrafts being sold. It is nice that they are mostly locally made and not imported ware. We like strolling among the stalls and taking in all the different sights and smells. Locals and tourists mix in the big outdoor space along the ocean. During lunch time it gets difficult to find a spot along the boardwalk, because everyone is having their lunch here. We also buy some samoussas and chicken and rice and sit down with live music being played in the distance.

We occasionally have a sunset beer, a “dodo”, named after the famous bird that used to live on the island but got extinct in the 17th century by seafarers. On the first evening we stumble into a nice bar with live music and spend quite a bit of time there. It is such a nice, slow start to the holiday. We chat, we have a beer, we plan our holiday a little and generally just enjoy the atmosphere. With just a two hour time difference we are also not very jetlagged. We like the weekends on the island when people meet for music and drinks.

La Saline les Bains & all the snorkelling you can imagine

The beach in Saint Paul is black and signs warn against swimming due to currents and sharks. Good that our next stop is a little further along the coast, where the beach is protected by a reef and it is safe to swim in the lagoon.

I should also mention that humpback whales migrate to La Réunion to have their young ones. Every day we see whales from the coast. It is amazing. Sometimes we see only their backs, and sometimes they jump.

In La Saline les Bains we have a cute Airbnb not far from the beach. We brought our snorkel and mask from home and just jump right in the sea. There are so many fishes between the corals. It is so beautiful and we cannot get enough of it. It is amazing to simply step into the lagoon and be surrounded by this tropical underwater paradise.

One day we go to Saint Gilles for a whale watching tour and see quite a lot of humpback whales. It is so beautiful to observe them from the boat. A mother and her cub are far away in the distance, but it is so beautiful to see the little one jump again and again. And I like the companies’ policies. They cut the engines when they are still quite far away from the whales and drift and just look. Sometimes the whales come closer, sometimes they do not. My last Kenya safari experience was different and I did not like it as much in parts. The drivers were following the lions too much for my taste, getting in their way, just so that we could get good photos.

Cilaos & some impressive hiking

After some beach time we are heading into the mountains. The ‘road of the 400 corners’ is taking us to Cilaos and getting there on the bus is already an adventure. The clouds are hanging low and the air is full of humidity, even though it is not raining. The contrast between the tropical beach and this green caldera could not be bigger. The inland of the island is dominated by the highest mountain, Piton des Neiges, which is 3000 metres high. There are lots of old, dormant volcanoes and an active one.

We cannot believe our eyes as we open the curtains the next morning. The clouds have vanished, the sun is shining and the view from our little terrace towards the green walls of the caldera is breathtaking. We love hiking in this verdant, subtropical landscape. It is breathtaking, the beautiful nature, as well as the strenuous paths. We hike up steep mountains, cross rivers, marvel at waterfalls and the high peaks surrounding us. We have such a wonderful time.

The food here is traditionally rice, lentils or beans and some form of carri (the creole version of curry) with fish, chicken or pork. We like the cuisine a lot. It’s fragrant without being too spicy. The mix between the Creole and the French is felt in many aspects of island life and the kitchen is no exception.

Piton de la Fournaise & an incredible volcano hike

After one night by the sea we are heading up the mountain again. This time our destination is the “most active volcano in the world”, the Piton de la Fournaise. We join a tour from a mountain tour guide and it is a lot of fun and very interesting since this way we can get off the marked paths. We see so many different types of lava, every shade of brown and black stretches out in front of us as we cross the caldera towards the main peak. The most recent eruption was in July, but there is one every year.

We go all the way up to the big crater and marvel at the beauty and the view. The area is so barren around us, the sun burns relentlessly from a near cloudless sky and the wind blows strongly. We do not stay long, but turn around and hike down the flank a little. In a wind protected spot we have our lunch, before we continue down the steep, but very grippy slope.

It was a fantastic hike and something very special. Usually I am not a group trip person. But the road to the parking at the outer crater rim is only accessible by car. We debated if we should rent a car and hike on our own or if we should join a group. In the end we went for the group option and were very happy with that. With a guide you can leave the marked paths and really explore. Didier told us a lot of facts and was a super guide.

Knowledge of French helps a lot on this island. Just like mainland France, most people only speak French or very limited English.

We travel by bus and enjoy the slow getting around. We could have gotten a rental car, but especially in the mountains it is nice to be driven and focus on the nature around you. La Réunion has a good bus system and getting around is not a big problem. We enjoy this holiday so much and cannot believe how lucky we are to have found this gem in the Indian Ocean.

We have been here almost two weeks and have seen and done quite a lot.

Saint Joseph & the Langevin Waterfall

Our last stop is the Langevin waterfall. We take the bus to Saint Joseph and since we can only check into our apartment in the evening, we spend the day at the Bassin de Manapany. Last time I swam in a salt water pool like this was in Australia. We enjoy the mix of sun and shade and jump in whenever we feel too hot. There is a small restaurant up the street and we go for smoked chicken, lentils and rice and some samoussas for lunch. This slow afternoon is a perfect example of our holiday here. Everything moves a little slower on the island, and yet a day is always filled with so many beautiful impressions.

The next day, we take a small bus partly up the valley and then we continue on foot. We walk up a small street past the Trou Noir waterfall. We enjoy walking along the lush green valley. The birds are chirping, bananas and mangos grow around us. Shortly before we reach the Langevin waterfall it gets a little more crowded. There are a few people here climbing among the boulders and at the viewpoint. We only stop here briefly to admire the water falling down into the basin. The colours are so beautiful: the lush green wall, the emerald water, the grey rocks…

Later we stop for a swim at the Trou Noir waterfall. The water is quite cold, but so refreshing. There are a few other bathers and some dogs in the cool pond.

A bus ride & a stop by the ocean

On the last day we finish the loop back to Saint Denis. We drive along sugar cane fields and pass small villages along the way. At the ‘plage de Tremblet’ we are getting off the bus and walk down to the coast. We find a shaded spot under some pine trees on the black lava rocks overlooking the ocean. This is a perfect spot for a little break and our lunch. A little further is the “youngest beach”, which was born out of a lava eruption in 2007. The green colour stems from olivine minerals and shines in the sunlight against the black rocks.

As we continue our bus ride later, we pass two older lava streams from when lava flowed into the ocean. It looks spectacular, even now after all these years. In the afternoon we finally reach Saint Denis and it feels familiar to get off the bus at the main bus station by the ocean.

We had a wonderful holiday and really enjoyed the diversity of the island. There was so much to do and see and experience. Before this trip we only had a vague idea of what to expect and we can safely say that our expectations were wonderfully surpassed.

Susanne xoxo

Der Beitrag La Réunion – an Island Holiday erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

It is still winter in South Africa, but the sun is shining and I cannot wait to be back in Cape Town. Last year I was here for the first time and loved it. We are all full of energy as we get to our hotel midday and plan to meet again in 30 minutes. If the layover calls for it, we can change quickly and be ready right away.

Table Mountain

At the valley station of the Table Mountain cable car we have to wait in line for a bit. Saturday is maybe not the best day to go, but we do not mind. We are chatting and admiring the view already and so time passes quickly. The city stretches out in front of us. The bay shimmers in the sunlight. Clouds are slowly creeping in, but soon we are in the rotating gondola and glide up the mountain.

The view over Cape Town and the bay is so beautiful. Robben Island is visible in the distance, Lion’s Head is sitting to the left, and the city stretches in front of us…

Table Mountain is 1067 metres high and up here it is quite cool. Some tourists are only wearing light summer clothing and freeze visibly. After a while the clouds take over completely and visibility is almost zero. It is cold and very wet as we finish our walk around the plateau. The landscape is still beautiful. Low bushes grow between the rocks, moss covers a lot of the surfaces and birds sail in the wind.

Already on the way down we sail through the clouds and are back in the sunshine. It was such a good idea to immediately set out after our arrival, so we could catch the Table Mountain views before the clouds came in. The weather can change quite quickly here at the Cape.

Tonight the crew meets for dinner in Camps Bay. It is always a nice experience to sit with everyone, share good food and wine, talk and laugh and exchange flight stories. Layovers can be such a lot of fun.

Stellenbosch

Last night, six of us decided to go on a wine tasting tour to Stellenbosch today.

We meet our driver at nine o’clock and immediately set out for the drive out of the city. Cape Town layovers are really not made for sleeping, they are action-packed.

Wild Callas grow along the highway and after having passed the biggest township of Cape Town, we are already nearing Stellenbosch.

We follow a small track through fields to our first vineyard. The rolling hills are beautifully green. The gnarly wines are without leaves, but with the green grass around it still looks pretty. A few guinea fowls run across our path. Signs warn of chameleons crossing. They are hibernating right now, but easy to spot in the summer, according to our guide. That would be wonderful to see. I have a completely new relationship with chameleons since I have seen a few now in Malta.

It is 11 o’clock in the morning and we are tasting our first three wines. It feels very decadent, but we love it. The sun has not fully come out yet and we are happy to sit inside close to the fire. The view over the pond and towards the hills is quite beautiful and I wonder how it must all look during harvest season, when the wines are at their peak.

Today it is Sunday and we stop in the centre of Stellenbosch for a walk around the Sunday market. People sell handicrafts, second hand clothing, self-made cosmetics and food. It is a nice atmosphere walking along the small streets and admiring the beautiful white houses from colonial times. They shine brightly against the blue sky and the distant hills. It has gotten warmer and we happily stroll around for an hour and get lost among the crowds. People are sitting outside cafés in the sun, soaking up the warm temperatures.

Our next vineyard is also our lunch stop. While we wait for our table, we try another two red wines. I am really looking forward to some food after having tried so many different wines already this morning. The food here in South Africa is always so delicious. This lunch is no different. We cosily sit together, enjoying our lunch and good conversations. We are a really nice group and get along very well.

For our last wine tasting we are able to sit in the garden of the estate overlooking the hills and the wines. The sun is shining and a hint of spring is lying in the air. Bougainvillaea are snaking up the white buildings. It looks so pretty. We enjoy our day very much. It all feels very luxurious and decadent today and sometimes that is just what you need.

A waiter passes by with a very good smelling dish for our neighbouring table. We quickly decide to order some cheesy nachos as well. Getting food inspiration like this is my favourite kind and it pairs so well with the red wine.

What luck we have had with the weather today. As we drive back towards Cape Town we can see the clouds hanging low.

Even though I am tired and had a good lunch, five of us go out to dinner again in the evening. Eating out is just always such an experience here. We are having a good time and enjoy the beautiful restaurant a lot. It is dark and moody and feels a bit like sitting in someone’s living room.

Bo-Kaap

Today, we are flying back home. But till then, we still have some time and so three of us decide to go to colourful Bo-Kaap. The area has a rich history and is said to be the oldest residential quarter of Cape Town. The houses are shining in the sunlight and there are quite a few tourists strolling around taking photos. I love the bold colours of the houses. Sometimes the neighbouring colours match and sometimes they form contrast, which is just as nice.

This was my second time in Cape Town after last year’s amazing trip to the Cape of Good Hope and it was just as special. We were very lucky with the weather and it only rained a little during the night. We were a really nice crew and had lots of fun together. There is still so much to see and explore and I cannot wait to come back and discover more of the Cape.

Der Beitrag Cape Town Calling… erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

A family visit brought us to Spain this summer. It has been 15 years since my last visit to Andalucía. I was an Erasmus student in Barcelona back then and travelled south over the Christmas holidays.

The contrast to then could not be bigger. Back then, I stepped off the night train into the cold and crisp morning air. A cold wind came down from the snowy mountains of the Sierra Nevada. Today, we are greeted by 37 degrees as we get off the bus from Malaga airport.

Discovering the Albaicín

In the evening we are walking through the Albaicín. Its white houses glow in the evening sun. Slowly the temperatures drop and more and more people venture outside. The cobbled streets fan out like a labyrinth. We enjoy just drifting along and seeing where our feet take us. There are quite a number of viewpoints of the Alhambra and we cannot get enough of the red buildings. The Sierra Nevada towers in the background of the UNESCO world heritage sight, albeit without the snow.

Strolling around the City Centre

Walking around the city centre, we drift along the small streets and alleys. The Alcaiceria, the Mercado de Artesanía mainly sells souvenirs now. We still like to wander through and have a look around.

The cathedral of Granada is majestic. I do not know if I find the view up from the hill more impressive or standing in front of her. Both views show off the grand scale of the building. The catholic kings really wanted to set a sign after the successful Reconquista. It is fun to stroll around the city centre and hop from shade to shade with an ice cream in our hands. It is really hot at the beginning of July in the South of Spain. But we are enjoying ourselves and spending lots of time with our family.

Visiting the Alhambra

The Alhambra with her intricately beautiful mosaics and lush gardens was what drew me to Andalucía in the first place. I ended up visiting the monument with a Vietnamese girl from my hostel and we spent almost the whole day in the grounds visiting the different parts. The charm in winter was, of course, that there were not many people. The same cannot be said for the beginning of July. The grounds are swarming with people, but still we take our time and find quiet spots in all the hustle. The charm of the Alhambra, the magical atmosphere touches us right away. The fragrant roses in the garden exude their sweet perfume. Pines, cypresses and olive trees give shade in the small courtyard gardens where water fountains refresh the air and add their soft music to the spectacle.

The mosaics in the Nazaríes Palace are as beautiful as I remember them. My favourite one is the one with the interlacing stars. There are so many different rooms. Some are small, others big. Some are very simple and others very ornately decorated. I could spend hours here soaking up the atmosphere. It feels so historically rich and amazingly peaceful.

On my first visit, the Lion Fountain was under reconstruction and not in its usual space. This time, the fountain is standing proudly in the middle of the marble courtyard. The water running in the floor has a nice cooling effect, which is very welcome on this hot summer evening.

The Alcazaba Palace offers wonderful views of the Albaicín quarter. The cluster of white houses across the valley looks amazing. In the distance a thunderstorm is brewing, however, luckily, it does not come our way.

We continue our walk through the different areas of the Alhambra grounds. The Palace Carlos V we only visit briefly as they are in the process of setting everything up for a concert. As it gets later, the evening light sets the reddish towers aglow. We slowly walk through the gardens towards the summer palace Generalife and its lush gardens and water basins.

The crowds are thinning and we enjoy the silence of this palace. The views over to the rest of the Alhambra and the city are so beautiful. Within the courtyards, the water fountains are cooling the air and the basins mirror the reflections of the buildings. What wonderful architectural design.

After exiting the Alhambra, we cross the valley to the Albaicín and stop for dinner at a nice restaurant. By now, we have gotten to know some of the small alleyways already and orientation has become easier. We love this area and could wander around the small streets for a long time. The sky is slowly turning to darkness and after dinner we walk around a bit more. It feels like a luxury to stay at the outskirts of the quarter.

This was a short, but very sweet visit to the South of Spain. We will definitely return and possibly visit even more of beautiful Andalucía.

Thank you for having us…

Der Beitrag Revisiting the Alhambra erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

I have had quite a few flights to the US lately. This June layover in New York, I am particularly looking forward to. I have never been to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and this time I want to go and see the Karl Lagerfeld exhibition “A Line of Beauty”. I have never been a huge fan of his and am well aware of the controversies surrounding his persona. However, as a sewist I am very interested in seeing some of his creations and the design process behind them.

In the morning, I take the Subway over to Manhattan and get off at the Grand Central Station. People are on their way to work and are rushing past me, but that does not keep me from admiring the beautiful ceiling for a moment. I am hungry and stop by a Bagel shop a few blocks away. The long line quickly progresses and soon I hold my ‘eggs on avocado’ bagel in my hand and find a spot outside to enjoy it. Now I feel ready for the day ahead.

Since the Met lies directly by Central Park, I use this opportunity to discover more of the huge green space. Often enough, when I walk across the Brooklyn Bridge into Manhattan I only make it until about Midtown before I head back.

Blue sky and some clouds make for excellent park weather. It is getting warmer also. I pass by the statue of Alice in Wonderland. There are so many dog-walkers, joggers, bikers, walkers and tourists…

The Met opens at 10 o’clock and the line is quickly growing. Luckily, I am quite far up and make my way immediately to the separate entrance for the Lagerfeld exhibition. I had read an article about one of his “première d’atelier”, the main seamstress, in the newspaper before and found her work fascinating. She features with other colleagues in a few videos illustrating the way from paper drawings to finished garment.

A girl standing next to me describes quite adequately how I feel. She says, “I like this” and points to the flowing dress with intricate pastel flowers, “And this, and this and this…”. She points to the rest of the dresses in the row. A little further a woman asks her friend standing in front of a line of dresses, “So which one would you wear?”. I feel inspired and would like to start sewing myself right now.

The museum is huge and I continue to walk through some of the other galleries. I do not have an exact plan, but rather stroll along and take it all in. There are so many different eras, and styles to see. It is such a beautiful museum and certainly not the last time that I have been here. I end my tour at the rooftop space. It is nice to sit down a little and have a drink. The view over Central Park is vast and the skyscrapers provide such a nice contrast to the green park.

My trip continues to Bryant Park where I stop for some lunch. It is such a lovely spot to sit here with so many others also having their lunch here. After my rest, I feel restored and ready for the Garment District. The Met exhibition was so inspiring and it feels wonderful to be able to browse the aisles at Moods and touch the different fabrics.

But now I really have to head back to the hotel. It is 2pm and I started my tour this morning at 7am. After having rested for two hours in the hotel, I go out again. This time, the subway takes me to Times Square. The lights, the ads, the masses of people. I am always amazed by this crazy urban space. Tonight I have a ticket for “Some like it hot”. The 1950s movie is one of my favourites and I cannot wait to see the Musical. It is beautifully done and I am so happy I went to see it. Having a day off in New York was the perfect opportunity for that.

What a day…. I am so tired taking the train back to Brooklyn. It was such a beautiful day full of exciting things. New York always has something special to offer, no matter how many times I have been here.

After a good night’s sleep, I feel restored for another day of exploring. Today I stay on the Brooklyn side and take the subway to Williamsburg. I buy another bagel and an iced tea and take my breakfast to a park at the East River. There is a small beach with an amazing view of Manhattan. This is the perfect spot for eating and reading. Sea planes are taking off towards the Hamptons and ferries criss-cross the river. It is quite busy.

Before heading back to the hotel I stroll a bit through Williamsburg. I like the small houses, the cafés and shops, the colourful grafitis. The sun is out and it is a beautiful day.

What a wonderful layover! An additional day in New York is something rare and therefore that much sweeter. I had a great time and enjoyed the mix of revisiting favourite things and discovering new sights.

Der Beitrag Another New York City Experience erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Tbilisi

We start our trip in the capital of Georgia, in Tbilisi and come back a few times on our travels across the country.

On our first walk up and down the steep cobblestone streets in the Betlemi Historic Quarter we fall in love with the city’s charm. That love only deepens once we have experienced a little its restaurant and food culture. A glass of wine, some delicious food, some live music to accompany our evening…

The Narikala Fortress resides up above the old town. Even though it is raining as we walk up there, the mist and low hanging clouds add to the charm. The roofs of the numerous churches shine in the rain as we huddle under our umbrella. We are not fazed by the rain and our shoes slowly getting wet and continue to discover more of this charming city. The deep red wine paired with the hot potato wedges taste especially good in this weather.

Some of the churches are sitting below the current street level and attest to their age. I cover my hair as I enter and the rich darkness takes us. Light falls through the tall windows and casts a golden light on the icons. The smell of incense lies heavily on the air and the little wax candles add to the overall calm and revered atmosphere. You can feel that churches are an old and important institution in this country.

The biggest church on the other side of the Kura River is the Georgian-Orthodox Holy Trinity or Sameba Cathedral. Its golden cupolas are visible from afar. The majestic church is one of the biggest in the world and quite a sight. It is Sunday morning as we pass by. The doors are open while mass is being held inside and the singing can be heard all over the main square in front.

We continue our walk to Fabrika. The former Soviet sewing factory has been turned into a cultural space. We love the atmosphere there and spend quite a bit of time in the courtyard soaking up some sunshine, having lunch, admiring the exhibitions and walking through the handicraft fair. Tbilisi is filled with interesting places. We are not getting tired of exploring this city.

The old town has a lot of beautiful corners, and we quickly fall in love with the old houses and their intricately carved wooden balconies. Some are restored, and others are barely still standing. Small alleys wind up the hill. There is always something to discover around the next corner.

Mtskheta

The weather is still a bit grey and rainy, but we are making the most of it. The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the city centre has a fortified wall around it and is beautiful inside. I like the mystique light filtering through the windows in the tall tower, the smell of incense burning and the warm glow of the thin candles illuminating the golden icons. Only the group of school children breaks a bit the peaceful atmosphere.

The Jvari Monastery looms high on the hill across the river. Normally, we would drive up there and enjoy the view, but passing clouds hide the church every once in a while and so we decide against it. We opt for walking a little along the river, but soon have to really search for the path between all the puddles. It must have rained a lot here.

What best to do on a rainy evening but to sit in a nice restaurant with a glass of delicious Georgian wine, some good food and a view of the cathedral. We talk a lot and feel very cosy as the rain is falling outside. Life can be so sweet.

Kutaisi

The small city is a stop on our way to Svanetia, but we really come to like our choice. The main centre is very walkable and when we first arrive we spend the whole afternoon discovering this charming place. There are a lot of cafés and restaurants, parks and a church a little up the hill with a nice view over the city and its surrounding area. In the evening with enjoy delicious food in a beautiful restaurant with live music. A group of four men sing traditional Georgian songs and everyone listens in awe.

We cannot communicate much with the lady of our Guest House, but she organises us a driver and we set out to the Motsameta and Gelati monastery near Kutaisi. The Motsameta monastery lies high above the Tskaltsitela River in the middle of a forest. It feels lovely to get out of the city and we enjoy the green vista.

We continue our little excursion to the historically important Gelati monastery. It was founded in 1106 as one of the first monasteries of Georgia and also served as a centre for science and education. The views over the Tskaltsitela valley are beautiful and today marks the end of the rain on this holiday.

Mestia

We initially debated whether a trip to the far Svanetia would be a good idea. We ended up being so happy that we went.

The long drive up from Zugdidi is already part of the adventure. With no exact information of the departure of the Marshrutka, we do not really know what to expect. At our Guest House we get the information 8 or 9 o’clock and when we asked at the bus stop the day before they tell us 10 o’clock. We end up waiting for quite some time before the driver shows up at 9am. Sometimes, it takes a while when the driver wants to wait for more passengers. And that’s exactly what happens. After some negotiations it is almost 10 o`clock and we are finally on our way.

Mestia and the surrounding villages are famous for their fortress towers. They are dotted all over the villages. Each family had such a tower as part of their farm. Access was only via a ladder and the tower served as protection from attacks and blood feuds.

The snowy mountains are the perfect backdrop for our hike around the Mestia valley. It is still spring up here. The apple and cherry trees are in full bloom, butterflies are everywhere. For most of our walk uphill, we share the path with a small river. The snow is melting high on up in the Caucasus Mountains. The valley of Mestia with its small airport stretches out below us. We have a lunch break at the ruins of a Soviet sport centre. Now, only cows graze between the abandoned structures. The trail continues through light forests and over green meadows. Small Alpine flowers add a bit of colour to the landscape. On the way back we have to cross a gurgling river cascading down the hill. The wood planks across the water are slippery and we try to be very careful so no one falls in. The noise of the water drowns out all the other sounds and the sunlight filters through the fresh green leaves. What a beautiful day today. The stone towers get taller and taller as we get closer to Mestia. It is so interesting to see the old buildings. I wonder what life must have been like here…

Telavi

Last but not least, we visit the wine region of Georgia. The country advertises itself as the oldest wine producing country in the world. So far we have liked the wines a lot, especially the red wines. Already the drive to Telavi is beautiful and leads us through the agricultural areas. Upon our arrival we have trouble finding our Guest House at first. We have had the problem before that the properties did not have signs and we had to ask around. Everyone is always helpful and so it usually never took long for us to find it. The alphabet is beautiful, but also impossible to read for foreigners.

The centre of Telavi is not big, but the old cobbled street with wooden houses and their carved balconies is beautiful. The old church has snapdragon flowers growing out of its roof. Along the main street there are quite a few buildings from Soviet times.

For dinner, we find a small restaurant and sit in their garden. The view over the valley is beautiful as the sun slowly sets. The red wine is really good and we enjoy this lengthy dinner. Georgia was a proper food holiday.

Der Beitrag A Georgian Holiday erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

We have wanted to visit our small sister island to the north ever since we moved to Malta. As it takes us a bit to cross the island and take the ferry over, we plan to stay for two nights and make the most of it. The April sunshine is calling us as we set out on this little staycation.

Victoria

First stop: Pastizzi shop. After our bus-ferry-bus trip to Victoria, we are hungry and need some flaky pastry deliciousness before we head on with our explorations of Victoria. Everything seems a little smaller compared to the bigger island of Malta. We love it right from the start…

The view from the old Cittadella in Victoria is beautiful in all directions. The small cubic houses crouch together beneath us, a little further a village perks high up on the hill, overlooking the green valley and we can see the sea on several sides. The wind is almost blowing us away, but the 360°-view is stunning.

We return later in the evening shortly before they close the citadel in order to see the lights. The view is almost more spectacular than during the day. The golden street lights illuminate the blue night sky and it looks like a painting straight out of a fairy-tale.

Walking through the narrow alleys of Victoria is a bit like meandering through a maze. Sometimes we end up in a beautiful cul-de-sac filled with flower pots, a bench, and two or three colourful doors belonging to the limestone town houses. The cries of teens playing football echo along the streets.

Somehow we end up in the Pjazza and marvel at the liveliness of the square in the afternoon. There are quite a bit of tourist groups on a day visit of Gozo. However, they disappear in the evening and when we return for an aperitivo there are only few people left in the restaurants around the little square. It feels very homely and quiet. We could not possibly love our trip to Gozo any more.

Lush green valleys & small villages

On our first day, we walk to the small central bus station and take a bus in direction of the Ta’Pinu Basilica. As we get off the bus, we can already see the impressive church from afar. It is standing between fields and across a small valley from the village of Gharb. We have a look inside the Roman-Catholic shrine, which is an important pilgrimage site for Maltese and then we continue on to Gharb.

The yellow limestone is shining in the afternoon sun. The streets are deserted and we are the only people walking along the main road towards the bus stop. We love the peace and quiet as we stroll down the street. There are so many pretty corners, so many beautiful balconies and doors, plants growing everywhere. Some houses are very well taken care of; others seem uninhabited and falling into disrepair. We love the mix of both.

The coast is never far away

The salt pans of Marsalforn are another attraction of Gozo. We take the bus to Zebbug and enjoy the view over the wild ocean. Today is another windy day. We follow the steep road down to the coast and see the first salt pans. They are around 350 years old and still in use today. Gozo Salt is a popular souvenir and can be found for sale all over Malta. We follow the coastline to the beach town of Marsalforn. At the end of April everything is still a bit sleepy, but in summer it must get very busy. Today, the biggest attraction is the waves crashing onto the promenade. Luckily, we manage to pass without getting wet. All we need is a pastizzi as we wait for the bus taking us across the island to the Southern part.

The Ta’Cenc cliffs are on the South coast of Gozo and are quite impressive. We only go on a short walk, because the wind along the cliff’s edge is quite strong. Still, even the short walk gives us a nice impression of the cliffs. The rock formations look like pancake layers. Flowers crouch low between stones, seeking protection from the wind. An ocellated skink crosses our path. They look like a mix between a lizard and a snake and are quite common on the islands here. Before heading back to Victoria, we sit for quite a while on a wind-protected bench and chat.

Dwejra Bay

Dwejra Bay is ideal for sunsets and so we head there in the afternoon. We exit the bus up on the hill and slowly walk down towards the bay. Fields of wheat stretch to our left and right. Red poppies and yellow chrysanthemums grow along the limestone walls. The afternoon sun adds a warm glow to our surroundings. The golden light and the soft swishing of the wheat fields accompany us all the way down to the sea.

We have dreamt of an ice cream and so this is our first stop when we reach the bay. Mmhhh… this is what good holidays are made off.

We walk over to Fungus Rock and find a protected spot from the wind. Here we sit for quite a while and enjoy the scenery. A few boats anchor in the small bay. Fungus Rock serves as a wavebreaker for them. Even though the azure window collapsed in a storm in 2017, the coast line is still very dramatic. The cliffs are impressive and water and wind have carved out pools and mushroom-like formations out of the coastline.

To the other side of the Bay, there is a small lake with a cave connection to the open sea. Rental boats dot the coastline. But it is still early in the tourist season, so most boat houses are closed.

The evening is wonderful. The sun slowly drops and the golden light reflects in the tidal pools. We could stay here forever and admire the changing light. However, with the sun setting it also gets colder and 5 minutes before the actual sunset we have to take the last bus back to Victoria.

Ramla Beach

Ramla Beach is a reddish sand beach and one of the only beaches I know with the statue of a saint on its shores. The half-moon stretches in front of us and we walk a little to the side to escape the crowded area. Here it is quieter and only the sound of the waves is audible. We sit and talk; we eat some strawberries and simply enjoy the warm sunshine.

The colours are marvellous today. The red sand, the impressively blue sea, the green hills… Oh, how I wish the water was warmer and I could go for a swim. It looks so inviting. I guess we have to come back in autumn and jump in then.

After our break in the sand, we tackle the short walk up to the Tal-Mixta cave. The small path leads through tree mallow and small shrubs.  Cactuses line the way, as we scramble up the rocks to the cave. The view from up here is spectacular. We do not get tired of these colours. Everything glows in blue, green, yellow and red… Of course, it is quite busy here, but the moment we walk out of the cave on top and follow a small path back to the beach, we lose the crowds.

As we get back to the beach, we take of our shoes and walk along the surf. By now, it has gotten quite warm and we gladly carry our jackets. The day is filled with the promise of summer.

We had such a lovely time in Gozo. The small island is perfect for a quiet get-away: small villages, stunning coastline, a beautiful capital… We are already thinking of when we can visit Gozo again.

Der Beitrag An Anniversary Trip to Gozo erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

It is such a nice feeling to be back in Hong Kong and to be able to go out again. No more room quarantine. I am very much looking forward to this layover. And on top of that, the weather forecast promises sun and clouds and warm temperatures.

My hotel room has a view of Victoria Harbour and I feel energised to go out for dinner despite the long flight we have had. There are 12 of us as we set out for Wan Chai. Dinner followed by drinks in one of the many bars is exactly what this return to the city asks for.

Victoria Peak

I am equally motivated to do something the next day despite the short jet lagged sleep. The question is more, what to do, what to choose from the many things Hong Kong has to offer. In the end, I head towards Victoria Peak because the weather is clear and promises a good view of the sea, the islands and the city. It is Easter Monday and many people join me on the circular path around the Peak: families, joggers, dog walkers, casual strollers…

I love the lush green, dense forest. Everything feels so verdant and beautiful. The cicadas are giving it their all and give a noisy concert. I can see Lamma Island to the south. In the hazy distance I can even make out further islands and lots of cargo ships passing by. The milky turquoise waters of the South China Sea never cease to fascinate me. It provides such a beautiful backdrop to the scenery.

As I round the corner, more and more of the city comes into view. The skyscrapers stand closely together. Some have balconies, some do not. But they all have their air conditioning units attached on the outside. Ferries criss-cross across the Harbour and are drawing white foamy lines.

The lush steep hills rising directly behind the skyscrapers are what I love so much about Hong Kong. Nature is never far away. My walking speed slows down considerably as I stop at every viewpoint to take photos and admire the ever slightly changing angles of the city. Birds are soaring overhead and the sun is filtering through the clouds. What a beautiful day. I have missed visiting the city so much.

Stanley

It is still early enough in the day for me to continue on to Stanley in the south of the island. Public transport is so convenient in Hong Kong and I especially love the double decker buses on the narrow winding roads. The views from the upper deck are so nice. I am glad that I do not have to drive, that I can simply lean back and enjoy the views.

The market in Stanley has shrunk quite a bit due to covid. It is still fun to stroll along the narrow lane and see all the paraphernalia on offer, though. Clothes, electronics, souvenirs of all shapes and sizes… some glitter, some sparkle and some make noise… I buy some lunch in a supermarket and find a shady spot along the bay. It has gotten really warm and I love to observe the people strolling by.

Kowloon by night

In the evening I meet two of my colleagues and we go out for the light show and then for dinner at the Temple Street Night Market. Here also the impact of Covid can be felt. Not a lot of stalls remain in the street and they only sell cheap souvenirs. We find a small food court and have dinner. Ordering based on the pictures in the menu is always a bit of an adventure, but usually it works.

Lantau Island

Today is our departure day, but we decide to meet in the morning and go to Lantau Island. The sun is shining and it would be a shame not to make use of the day. The ride on the airport bus and then with a smaller one up to the Tian Tan Buddha in Ngong Ping is already a sight-seeing trip in itself. Steep stairs lead up to the Buddha figure and lots of tourists stop for photos along the way. It is getting hot as we stroll around the Buddha. The lush hills are beautiful and the soft shapes of the islands in the distance rise from the haze. It feels like we are on holiday.

The adjacent temple area is where we are headed next. There are a few people, who are burning incense and the sweet smell is filling the air. I love the beautifully painted wooden structures of the buildings. The inside is overflowing with flowers in front of the golden buddhas.

We have a little lunch in the vegetarian café in the temple grounds before we head to the cable car station. On the way back we want to take the gondola. The views are so pretty, despite the haze. Ships are sprinkled over the South China Sea. We are floating above the steep hills and around the corner the airport comes into view. We slowly glide closer and see all the activity out on the airfield. In just a few hours we will be here again for our flight back home.

It was such an intense, activity-filled layover and I loved every minute of it. What a pleasure to be back in Asia and to fully experience it again after the pandemic.

Der Beitrag Back in Hong Kong erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Hello Kara,

I have been writing an email to you which I need to finish, but today’s lovely hike calls for a special sunshine filled email.

I have come back from Hong Kong yesterday and so today we wanted to make use of the lovely weather. Breakfast on the terrace is a perfect way to start into the day. The sunshine, the view of the blue sea, our bay, the container ships, the village of Birzebbuga,  the green valley…. The wind was blowing strongly and so we decided against a bike ride and opted for a hike.

The coast from here to Marsaskala is so beautiful. We have taken the bikes here quite often and today we want to stay even closer to the coast line and walk.

The 20 minutes’ walk to Marsaxlokk we do quite often. The spring flowers are slowly withering, but the yellow wild chrysanthemums, red poppies, pink French honeysuckle, lemon yellow buttercups, and rose coloured tree mallow and many more still bloom. The farmers have started mowing the first fields. The air is filled with the smell of hay and the wheat fields are gently swaying in the wind.

In the lovely little fishing village of Marsaxlokk we buy pastizzi (flacky pastries filled with ricotta cheese) for lunch later and some date biscuits. The village is famous for the many luzzu (traditional colourful fishing boats).

From here we walk up through lovely fields and over to St. Peter’s Pool. The overhanging edge is good for jumping into the sea. It is not very high, but popular among tourists and locals. We stop here for a second and wish we had brought our bathing things because it has gotten hot in the sun and a refreshing jump could have been nice. Next time.

We continue along the coastline. The whitish/yellow limestone in the water lets the shallow bay shine turquoise in the sun. The colours are stunning and we are amazed of the beauty every time we are here. Sparrows are chirping, lizards are darting into the bushes as we pass. We meet few people. I even spot a snake slithering away between the rocks. Malta has four types of snakes, but only one is poisonous and only for the small animals it hunts.

We pass through chrysanthemum fields on a narrow path. The St. Thomas Cliffs have a little window in them and a few boats anchor in the bay. At one point the cliff is not quite as steep and inaccessible and there is a small path leading down to the water. For sure, we need to come here in the summer for swimming.

After a little while Marsaskala comes into view. We stop again at a small rocky beach. It was sunnier and warmer than we anticipated and we’re slowly running low on water. But what a day… From here it is not far anymore to the centre of the town and the bus stop. Sitting down for a moment while waiting for the bus is actually quite nice.

At home we have a big glass of icy water and some ice cream and strawberries. Strawberries are currently in season on the island and they’re so delicious. We buy them from the small local veggie trucks every other day.

Now it’s half past six and we’re sitting on the bus to Gzira. Tonight we’re going out for dinner. Afterwards we like to walk back towards Valletta along the coast. Ta’ Xbiex has beautiful villas and the marina of Marsa harbours some big sail boats and yachts. The illuminated churches of Valletta shine against the night sky. We love to walk here: we talk, we have a look around and we enjoy every minute of the evening.

I hope this email and the photos bring a bit of Mediterranean warmth to your house.

Sending you lots of love and sunshine,

Susanne

Der Beitrag A Spring Hike in Malta erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

There are six of us who would like to make the most of the free day we have in Nairobi. After arriving in the evening in our hotel, we organise a tour for the next day to the Nairobi National Park followed by lunch on the Karen Blixen estate. Sometimes being spontaneous is the best thing.

Already on the way to the entrance we spot some of the animals behind the fence. Everything is very dry and the dominating colours are grey and brown. In the beginning we see zebras, wildebeest, gazelles passing us in the distance. A male lion lies in the high grass, barely visible. In a waterhole a group of hippos enjoy the cooling water. A crocodile slowly swims past them. It is a slow start into the animal gazing, but we have time and enjoy the scenery around us.

We continue our drive and our driver always has one eye on his phone being in contact with other drivers. In the distance, the huge bridge of the fast train from Nairobi to Mombasa crosses the park in one straight line. Vultures are circling behind the bridge and we see a freshly killed gazelle. There are no lions in sight and we observe a group of giraffes sampling the acacia trees a little further.

Then we get a call that a lioness is on her way across the green strip towards us and the carcass. While we wait for her, a few more cars arrive. The drivers are a little too aggressive in our opinion and several times block the lionesses’ way. She seems undisturbed and moves easily between the cars to the gazelle. Another lioness appears and they briefly meet before they part ways again. They are such beautiful and majestic animals. It is incredible to observe. The vultures sit patiently close by and come back once the big cats have gone again.

On our way to another watering hole we come across a rhino and her little one. They are grazing and slowly moving towards the road and the cars. The young calf stays close to its mother, never venturing far. They pass behind us and gingerly jog across the dusty road, despite their massive bodies. Our driver switched off the engine and suddenly it is quiet enough to hear the sounds of the savannah. I like this a lot. The birds are chirping, the wind is swishing through the grass…

While driving we are mostly standing in the car, looking out through the roof. Dust is flying in our faces. I love the views. On one side of the park Nairobi‘s skyscrapers seem to grow out of the steppe. On the other side the park is open so that animals can migrate freely.

There are a lot of animals at the watering holes. Zebras, wildebeest and antelopes wade into the water despite the crocodiles resting on the shore not too far away from them. It is a nice mix of different animals coexisting side by side.

After leaving the Park, we are heading to lunch. Our driver takes us to the Karen Blixen Estate. The former coffee plantation now houses a museum and a little further down the road is a restaurant and guest house. Getting out of the car feels like stepping into lush greenery. The grounds are filled with palms and tall trees, as well as with lots of flowering bushes and smaller plants. We are sitting near the pool and feel very spoiled in these beautiful surroundings. Needless to say that our lunch is very delicious and we do not want to leave this oasis. We eat, we chat, we laugh….

It was an unexpectedly active and beautiful layover. Sometimes you do not need to make big plans in advance. We had such a good time together exploring the Nairobi National Park.

Der Beitrag Enjoying a Day Off in Nairobi erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.