After my very relaxing layover in Hong Kong three weeks ago, I want to be a bit more active this time.

After arriving, even though we are very tired, a colleague and I go to a small sushi restaurant around the corner for dinner. The long line surprises us at first, but then we realise that it is Saturday evening. So we take a number and go to the supermarket first. I need to buy provisions for my hike tomorrow. It takes us a while before we get a seat, but that does not matter, since we are having a good time catching up on each other’s lives. We enjoy our meal, and later I fall into bed, full and tired.

McLehose Trail Section I & II

Three weeks ago, one of my regional colleagues told me about the second section of the MacLehose Trail. The trail runs through Hong Kong in 10 sections, and I have already hiked other parts of it. She loves hiking in Hong Kong, especially since it is by the sea. I cannot agree more and am always in awe at the combination of skyscrapers, green hills and the wide sea.

So this morning I set off on my “journey” to the High Island East Reservoir. It takes an hour and a half and requires the metro and three buses to get there. Since it is Sunday, I am obviously not the only one. However, this also means the bus goes all the way to the reservoir, and I do not have to take a taxi for the last leg.

I walk along a paved path between dense green bushes up the hill. After just a few meters, I have left the hustle and bustle of the dam behind me. The birds are chirping, and many colorful butterflies flutter by. And then, around the corner, the first beach appears. It is still a bit hazy, yet the white sand and the emerald-green water are gleaming. It looks absolutely beautiful. I am so happy I chose this hike today.

A few tents are pitched on the beach. The small campground was used over the weekend. I only take a short break and continue walking. Next up is the big climb of the day to the 314-meter-high Sai Wan. It is quite hot, and I am sweating a lot. I overtake a few hikers and, halfway up, I sit down in a shady pavilion for a short drink break. There is another one at the summit. Asian hikers look so different from Western ones. Long sleeves, long trousers, wide-brimmed hats, and the women often wear a kind of mask on their faces so that not a single centimeter of skin comes into contact with the sun.

A Well Deserved Swim

After the biggest climb and descent of the day, the Sai Wan beach awaits me as a reward. The colors are magnificent. I find a shady spot and change my clothes. The sea is wonderfully refreshing. I could easily spend the rest of the day here. And maybe even rent a surfboard, since there are four surfers in the water. The waves are quite small, though. But I will keep that in mind. Perhaps I will come back here on another layover when the waves are bigger.

The next beach is not far. Here, too, I can understand why Ham Tin Beach is considered “one of Hong Kong’s most beautiful beaches.” It is gorgeous. The white sand, the greenish-turquoise water. Simply stunning. I have to go back in the water… Good thing I am still wearing my bikini. There are a few more people on this beach, but it is still very manageable. The cowpats on the path already indicated that the path is sometimes used by cows. And lo and behold, two of them come down the steps and continue along the beach into the mangrove forest.

With a heavy heart, I leave the coast behind and walk through the greenery to the road near Pak Tam Au. First, the path leads across sand, then alongside a pond. Frogs croak loudly, and bizarre butterflies with delicate, transparent upper wings and dense underwings look almost like bats.

The path leads through a small cluster of houses. A few cold drinks are available for purchase. Otherwise, most of the houses are dilapidated and reclaimed by the forest. A few beautifully painted signs made from old surfboards mark the way.

The last few kilometers lead gently uphill and downhill through a light, green forest. It was such a beautiful hike. I thoroughly enjoyed the day. Being able to break up the 15km with two swims was a wonderful change of pace and I loved it. Finally, I take the double-decker bus back to the metro and even get the premium seat upstairs at the front.

At the hotel, I take a shower. The mixture of sunscreen, sweat, and salt water has to come off. In the evening, I meet up with my colleague again for dinner, and afterward, my tired bones simply collapse into bed. What a wonderful day!!

Hong Kong’s Waterfront

I start my departure day leisurely with tea and breakfast in bed, and reading the newspaper. It feels great to take it easy this morning and relax. At midday, we meet for a walk along the waterfront to Tsim Sha Tsui. The view of all the skyscrapers on Hong Kong Island is always impressive. Day or night, I never get tired of this view. However, my legs are still a bit tired from yesterday and I am happy that we are taking the bus back.

A little more rest, and then it is back home in the evening. 13 hours of flight time. That is quite a long time. However, time passes quickly.

And then I am looking forward to a few days at home…

What a lovely layover again. Hong Kong is always great. City or nature, there is always something to discover.

In 2018 I went hiking to the Lion Rock.

Though it was not a hiking layover in 2023, I spent very active days on Lantau Island, in Stanley and the city. And let us not forget about Christmas 2023 spent in Hong Kong. 

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The flight through the night is quite long and after our morning arrival I lie down for a bit before walking along Copacabana Beach at midday. It is quite hot and humid. 32° Celsius. I walk in the shade of the houses for a while and then sit down in a café. An iced coffee helps with jet lag and fatigue. Ahh… it feels so good. What a gift to be here and to get such a nice flight from my standby duty. By the time I walk back, the sun has disappeared behind some clouds, and I can walk on the beach in the surf. What a wonderful start into this Rio layover. 

A Catamaran Tour

The next day, nine of us meet up and drive to the marina for a tour on a catamaran. However, we stay in Rio’s bay because the wind and waves are too strong further out. Corcovado Mountain with its Christ the Redeemer statue is shrouded in clouds. Sugarloaf Mountain, on the other hand, lies directly in front of us. The city always looks completely different from the water. Gannets fly by and frigatebirds glide high in the sky. There are a few boats out, but it is quite peaceful.

We swim in a small bay. The current is very strong, and you really have to swim hard to avoid being swept far from the boat. The water is refreshing but also pitch black due to the sediments in the bay.

We stay here until it gets dark. A few other boats arrive, but they all head back early. It is really lovely. We have music playing, we sing along a little, and we enjoy the view and the fact that it is slowly getting dark. By the time we get back to the harbour, the first drops of rain are falling. Perfect timing. Considering that much more rain was forecast for today, we were really lucky with the weather.

A Sunrise SUP Tour

On Saturday morning, the alarm goes off at 3:30 am. I found a sunrise SUP tour via GetYourGuide. One of my colleagues is coming along, and we meet up with the rest of the group at the other end of Copacabana shortly after 4:00 am. As we get into the water, it is still pitch black. Only the lights on the beach are visible. Slowly, it gets light… Sugarloaf Mountain stands out against the sky, a brightly lit cruise ship sails into the harbour… The current is strong; we have to paddle constantly to maintain our position and avoid being swept against the rocks. It is so beautiful.

Slowly, it gets lighter. Now we can see that hundreds of other people have also come out here on stand-up paddleboards. I had thought there might be fewer people because of Carnival. But no, it is packed. Despite the clouds, the sunrise is beautiful. We spend a total of two hours on the ocean, and we would have loved to stay longer. We always try to keep a bit to the side of our group and enjoy the calm of the sea. The colours are magnificent, the gentle waves moving our boards. It is so wonderful… We both love it so much.

Afterwards, we walk along the beach in Ipanema. It is drizzling lightly, but we do not care much. Since we have some time before our café opens for breakfast, we sit on the beach, look out at the ocean, and are completely happy. Later, refreshed after breakfast, we stroll a bit through the leafy streets of Ipanema… Life is good…

A Little Carnival

In Rio, Carnival is celebrated until Sunday. Ash Wednesday is not taken too seriously here. Besides the large parades in the Sambadrome, there are also smaller block parties in the various neighborhoods. There is one near us in the afternoon, so we decide to check it out. A brass band is playing, people are in costume and dancing, and drinks are being sold all around. We mingle with the crowd, but then a sudden thunderstorm sends us all running. Everyone seeks shelter under balconies and continues dancing. We get a taste of Carnival in Rio that way, too.

On our departure day, we have a leisurely breakfast, and I take one last walk along the beach. Then we head back home at midday.

Read more about my Rio adventures…

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I am off to Bogotá again. Over the last six months I have been here quite a lot, but there are worse places. Especially if you are flying on to colourful Cartagena. The tropical city at the Caribbean coast has quickly become my happy place. I love the heat, the colours, the fruit juices and ceviche, the leisurely pace…

Colourful Getsemaní

During the briefing, a colleague already asked if anyone else wanted to go to Cartagena. In the end, there are three of us. One night in the hotel, and then the next morning we meet in the lobby at 8.00am. The trip is so wonderfully easy. By 11.30am, we are in the old town of Cartagena. I can leave my bag at the hostel and even change from my long dress to a short one. Cartagena is always tropically humid and hot.

I walk to Getsemaní for lunch, and my colleagues soon join me. We sit together comfortably for quite a while before taking a stroll through the colorful, graffiti-covered neighborhood. There is so much to see. I especially love the house with Gabriel Garcia Márquez reading from “cien años de soledad” and yellow butterflies flying from the book. 

Colourful Sunset

In the afternoon, we meet again at the city wall to watch the sunset with cocktails. We are not the only ones there; it is crowded, but that means there is more to see than just the sun. The wind is blowing quite hard, but that does not matter. In the Bocagrande district, one skyscraper follows another. It reminds me of Miami, and the sun reflects off the facades along the promenade. Frigate birds and pelicans glide by. We stay until it gets dark.

Then we walk to the Old Town for dinner. We find a steakhouse, and the Super Bowl is on the big screens. None of the three of us are American football fans, but at halftime, we watch Bad Bunny’s halftime show, sung entirely in Spanish, with wild cheers from the Colombians. Considering I did not know the singer until last week, when he won his Grammy, I really enjoy the show. The Colombians are really into it, cheering and swaying their hips to the rhythm.

Colourful Old Town

The next morning, the sun shines from a clear blue sky, and it is even hotter than yesterday. The power goes out briefly twice while I am in the shower, but since the water is still running, I ignore it for the time being. Luckily, the power outage does not last long.

I have breakfast with my book in a small café. One of the reasons I love Cartagena so much is that I spend quite some time in cute cafés or restaurants with my book. It is always such a relaxing stay in the city.

Later I meet up with the other two by chance. I step into the cool cathedral to hide a bit from the sun and sit down on one of the benches in the back. The other two had the same idea. After a little while, we continue to stroll through the Old Town and have ceviche for lunch. We drink limonada de coco with it. What a wonderful day, even though we are sweating buckets.

In the afternoon, we head back to the airport. At the airport, we change in the restroom and are thus ready for the cooler weather in Bogotá.

Our departure day begins with the excellent hotel breakfast. We sit together until noon. Afterward, I walk to the supermarket, rest for a while, and am ready for the flight back in the evening.

Der Beitrag Colourful Cartagena erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

We have been planning this holiday for a while now and sometimes it can feel so magical when it turns out just the way you had envisioned it. The mix of big city life in Mexico City, surfing in Puerto Escondido and smaller city life in Oaxaca was just perfect.

Mexico City

The flight into Mexico City is incredibly beautiful. The snow-capped volcanoes rise from the plains, everything glows a soft pink in the gentle light of the setting sun, and then Mexico City appears before us. The city stretches to the horizon. It is unbelievable.. houses everywhere…

Jetlag has us firmly in its grip for the first two days in the city. The small hummingbirds greeting us in the morning for breakfast, however, already make us excited for the days ahead. It is Sunday and the Parque de Chapultepec is bustling with people. We wander through the park and then on to Roma. The neighborhood is incredibly green. Trees line every street, and many buildings are in the Art Deco style. There are so many cafes, restaurants, and shops. We let ourselves drift and whenever we pass a park, we sit on a bench for a while and recharge. Seven hours of time difference is quite a lot, but what a lovely start to our holiday.

In the afternoon, we take the metro to Coyacan. Here is the Frida Kahlo Museum. She was born in the Casa Azul, lived there for most of her life, and died there in 1954. The museum tells the story of her life and that of her family. There are hardly any of her paintings on display, but many of the objects she collected and her furniture. I especially like the studio with its large windows and a lovely view of the garden. The garden itself is also very beautiful. She is such a popular figure even today and it is fascinating to see where she lived.

During the day, the temperatures climb to 25° Celsius. At 2200 meters altitude, we really feel the sun. At night, however, it cools down considerably. We spend most of our time here walking around, exploring and eating lots of delicious food.

Puerto Escondido

A week of surfing… the reason for our trip to Mexico was an internet search about the best place to surf in November.

We are staying at a surf hostel one block from the beach. Today, our arrival day, we head to the beach in the afternoon for a swim. The waves are impressive and after a while we are exhausted from jumping and diving. It feels wonderfully peaceful and relaxing.

The sunset is incredibly beautiful. Every evening we sit on the beach and watch the sun go down, the people and dogs out and about, the surfers in the water… There is always something to see.

The next day our surfing begins. We usually surf early in the morning. It takes a little while to get back into it, but it is incredibly fun. Sometimes swimming out after surfing is more exhausting than the surfing itself. At times, there are no waves for a while, but bobbing on the water with the other surfers is part of the experience and so wonderfully relaxing.

After surfing, we are always incredibly hungry. At 9am, we have breakfast, and then we can already feel our tired bones and rest on the bed or in the hammock. A siesta usually follows. We are having the most wonderful time here. It is so much fun that we end up extending our stay and add two additional days to this incredible surfing experience.

In the mornings, a few pelicans often fly by while we are surfing. It is so beautiful to see them gliding over the water. We have also seen some monarch butterflies. They occasionally fly over the beach. Their orange and black pattern glows in the sunshine.

So, we are leaving Puerto Escondido after all… We were thinking about just staying here until the end of the year and continuing to surf What a wonderful time! We enjoyed it so much.

Oaxaca

The bus ride through the mountains is lush and full of breathtaking views. In a few places, we have to drive slowly over the remnants of landslides. And Oaxaca greets us with its agave fields, used for mezcal production.

We walk for half an hour through the center to our accommodation, and we immediately fall in love with the colorful houses. Oaxaca feels like a mix of tropical Cartagena, Colombia, and highland Antigua, Guatemala.

There are so many charming shops, cafés, and restaurants. Oaxaca is known for its handicrafts, especially textiles and pottery. We stroll along the streets, following the colors, the murals… Bougainvillea and vine climb over walls. So many skulls adorn the graffiti. Oaxaca is famous for its Day of the Dead parades and that can be seen everywhere.

The city is also known for its food. The bakeries are full of almond croissants, pain au chocolat, and other treats. And in the evenings, there are delicious tacos with shrimp and pineapple, stuffed zucchini blossoms, and braised beef. We drink mezcal with passion fruit to accompany our meals.

We thoroughly enjoyed our holiday. It was wonderful, especially the surfing in Puerto Escondido was incredible. Ahhh…. We miss the ocean, the waves, the tacos…

Der Beitrag Vacaciones Mexicanas erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

The flights to Bogotá are around 10 hours and 30 minutes long and added on top the seven hours time difference makes it a tough day. In the hotel, there is just about enough energy left in us to book a flight and hotel for the next day.

Within two weeks I have two Bogotá flights and during the first layover we head to Santa Marta and the second layover takes us to Cartagena and on to the Isla de Tierra Bomba.

Santa Marta

The flight to Santa Marta is only an hour and the time passes really quickly. I am so grateful that I can just sit back and relax and not have to work. The airport is right by the beach and very small. Within a few minutes we are sitting in our taxi and we are driving to our hotel.

Even though it rained during the drive, by the time we reach the hotel the sun is shining again and it is quite hot. My favourite thing about the drive is the “anteater crossing”-sign. It looks so cute. Unfortunately, we do not get to see one.

We settle into the lounge sofas by the pool, with our feet in the sand, a view of the ocean and a refreshing maracuja juice in our hands. It does not bother us at all when it starts raining later in the afternoon. We are so comfortable and love the atmosphere.

Sunrise is at 5.45am and the sky is so beautiful. The waves are rolling in, the clouds are turning pink and then the sun rises just where land meets ocean. What a glorious morning. We take a stroll along the waterline because breakfast is only later. In anticipation of a beautiful morning I am already wearing my bikini and cannot stop myself from jumping in the sea.

Between breakfast and our 2.30pm pickup, we jump into the waves twice more. The water is nicely warm and the waves have just the right strength for fun jumping and diving. We are so happy that we left Bogotá behind us and went on this little tropical get-away. The fish in coconut sauce is just the right send-off before we head back.

Isla de Tierra Bomba

After four days at home, I am off to Bogotá again. I already know how it works. Relaxed briefing at 12.55pm, full daytime flight, active passengers, 10 hours 40 minutes flight time…

I wrote to one of my colleagues in advance, as we met a few months ago in Shanghai, and we decided that this time we would fly to Cartagena and maybe continue on to an island.

The captain and the first officer join us, and so the four of us set off for Cartagena on Monday. It is so wonderfully easy: an Uber to the airport in Bogota, a quick trip through the terminal, a coffee, and then we head to the gate. A one-hour flight, and we land in Cartagena. We take the Uber past the old town, past the city walls, to the Bocagrande district. High-rise buildings line the streets here. It reminds us a bit of Miami Beach. From here, the boats depart for Isla de la Tierra Bomba. Naturally, the boatmen immediately rush towards us, all wanting us to go with them. A few pelicans are fishing and dive from the heights into the water like arrows. It is wonderful.

Shortly before we reach the island, a coast guard boat comes and stops us. The men are fully equipped with life jackets and weapons. The whole thing is filmed. However, they are not interested in us, but in the driver. They ask him who he works for, how many boats there are, etc. He then explains to us in English that “146” is the number we can call in any emergency, that we will always receive help, and that we should enjoy Cartagena.

It is so humid here. After just a few minutes, we are sweating quite a bit. From the boat dock, we walk a short distance along a coastal path. To our right, we see the high-rise buildings of Bocagrande and the container port. To our left, the dense green vegetation stretches. By the time we reach the colorful little houses of our accommodation, we are looking forward to a cool drink and a place to sit down. Today, there is a birthday party at the small pool. This means we are welcomed with a mimosa. This is how our holiday can begin, or at least, that is how it feels.

We startle an iguana as we step out onto the terrace of our small house. Since the pool is busy, we use the viewing platform. From here, we have a view over the greenery and can see Cartagena in the distance. The breeze is pleasant; it is bearable here. Later, when the birthday party has left, we go down to the pool and enjoy the cool water. What a wonderfully relaxing day. It is always a good idea to fly to the coast from Bogotá.

We wake up shortly after midnight. There is a thunderstorm and a torrential downpour. I am sleeping upstairs in our little house, and it is raining on both sides through the open windows. My bed is soaked in no time, and all I have left is the outermost corner and the edge of the sheet. The rest of the night is rather uncomfortable, and I get up in the morning to watch the sunrise and go swimming. What a little adventure…

We spend the morning having breakfast, swimming, and relaxing… The time until noon passes quickly. We want to walk through Cartagena before flying back in the afternoon.

Cartagena

Ahh… I love Cartagena. The colors, the heat, the small streets, churches, the colorful murals… We leave our luggage at a guesthouse and walk through the streets. First, we eat ceviche and drink limonata de coco. That is just part of the Caribbean experience. The heat is truly intense. The humidity is much higher than last week in Santa Marta. From the old town, we walk to nearby Getsemaní. Some of the murales have been there since my first visit in 2018. Others have suffered from the humidity and have been refreshed or completely painted over. We stroll through the city, letting ourselves drift, and can hardly imagine ending up back in cool Bogotá this evening.

I find a pretty piece of fabric with Cartagena’s old town painted on it and am already dreaming of my Cartagena dress. What a beautiful memory and what a lovely stop here in the city today.

After the somewhat short night last night, I sleep so well in my hotel bed. The day of departure always goes by quickly. After a leisurely breakfast, I do some shopping at the supermarket and slowly make my way back to the hotel. An afternoon siesta helps prepare for the long flight back to Frankfurt.

It was another lovely trip to a different part of Colombia. I really enjoyed the two days.

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Today is my birthday and my alarm is set to 4.30am to start into a four day trip around Europe. I receive the first gift at 5am when crew scheduling calls and cancels our first flight this morning. We will fly as passengers and I get to sleep for an hour on the plane before the rest of work continues.

Budapest

By lunch time we are in Budapest and I am looking forward to celebrating a bit. Sometimes changing quickly and going out again is just the right thing to do. Today is one of those days. I take the metro for two stations and exit in the centre of the city. The sun is peeking through the clouds and I am enjoying the lovely autumn weather.

As a treat today I looked up one of the grand coffee houses which can be found all over the centre. The art deco style is what attracted me to this particular café and I am sitting down with a coffee, a selection of small pastries and my book. What a lovely gift to myself. I am enjoying my afternoon thoroughly.

After a while the blue sky and evening sun draw me back outside. Strolling through the streets, admiring the beautiful houses… I am losing myself just looking and following wherever the streets lead me. Slowly I am getting tired and so I stop by the supermarket for some dinner and return back to the hotel. A shower and a peaceful dinner on my bed are just the thing after a long day.

Istanbul

Our next stop is Istanbul. Together with two of my colleagues we are soon on the way to the city for an afternoon stroll. We get out of the car at a busy intersection in Karaköy and walk up to the Galata tower. The area is full of restaurants and shops. People are everywhere and for a moment we are a bit overwhelmed. We do not have a clear plan and decide to just stroll along. There is so much to see and as so often with colleagues, the conversation flows easily.

At some point we get hungry and stop at a cantina for some couscous and delicious stuffed wine leaves. Istanbul is an expensive city, I do not remember this from my last visit. The prices in the restaurants and shops are quite high. And still there are so many people with shopping bags around. However, window shopping is free of charge and we indulge in it to our heart’s content.

As we reach Taksim Place we slowly turn back and walk one of the streets, which run parallel to the Bosporus. A few cruise ships line up along the shore. The lights are slowly coming on and the view is spectacular. Across the bridge the Hagia Sophia and Süleymaniye Mosque sit beautifully on the hill. Tourists and locals mingle on the pavements as they all catch the sunset and continue on their way home or to dinner. The atmosphere is so ethereal. We are getting tired, but we still want to walk up to the Hagia Sophia. Last time I was in Istanbul I visited inside and enjoyed it a lot.

On a short-haul tour we often only have limited time in a city. But even a few hours can feel like a small holiday. What a gift.

Sarajevo

Sarajevo was the reason I had requested this tour. I have never been here before and we arrive at 12pm with lots of time for exploration. The walk along the river is already a lesson in history with visible gunshot holes in a few unrenovated buildings dating from the 1990s. A little further, next to one of the bridges is the spot where the Austrian heir to the throne was killed, starting the First World War.

Smaller once-storey buildings dominate the city centre. The pedestrian zone feels a bit like an old bazaar. Cafés are offering Turkish coffee, souvenir shops and restaurants are dominating the scene. The most bizarre souvenir to buy are pens and other things made out of bullet shells.

There are lots of signs explaining the history of certain buildings. Quite a few of the houses were built in the 15th century. The ruins of an old caravanserai are still visible. Churches and Mosques characterise the cityscape. It feels more arabic or turkish to me than other countries in the Balkan. Turkish coffee, baklava, Turkish delight… It is fascinating to walk around and take it all in.

I stroll along and enjoy the city, even though it is a bit greyer and colder than my other stops during this trip. A little up the hill, past a cemetery I admire the view over the city. The contrast between the Byzantine part of the city and the Austrian Imperial influence is clearly visible. From here it feels eerie to imagine how the city was besieged from the mountains surrounding it during the Yugoslavian war.

I meet one of my colleagues in a cute restaurant for dinner. We share delicious Bosnian food and talk about the things we have seen today. After the early 2am start this morning in Istanbul, we are both eager to get back to the hotel for some much needed rest.

I have had such a wonderful four day short-haul trip. It was the perfect mix of old and new, together and alone, working and free time, things I have done and seen before and new adventures…. I thoroughly enjoyed these four days…

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Rio… I have been looking forward to this flight and layover for a while now. And it is made even more special because I am once more able to take my husband along.

Wednesday morning, 5 a.m. local time, and we finally land in Rio. By the time we get to the hotel, the sun is just rising, and after an admiring view of Copacabana Beach from our window, we close the curtains and get some sleep.

Copacabana

At 11 a.m., we head to a small café around the corner and fortify ourselves with a coffee and passion fruit juice. Afterwards, we walk close to the waterline along the entire beach. It is 4 km. Beach vendors offer caipirinhas and bikinis for sale, and umbrellas and loungers for rent. We enjoy the view of the islands, the skyscrapers, Sugarloaf Mountain… We are so happy to be here. At the other end of the beach, we have lunch at a beach bar.

Sunset is here at 5:30 p.m. From the rooftop terrace of our hotel, you cannot see the sunset; it is in the other direction. But the view of the sea and the beach is incredibly beautiful. Plus, the full moon and a caipirinha…

A Sight-Seeing Tour, That Has It All

On Thursday, we meet up with three other colleagues and our guide in the lobby at 7:40 a.m. Today we plan to spend the whole day sightseeing.

Our first stop is the train ride up Corcovado to the Christ the Redeemer statue. It is still a bit chilly up here, and the clouds are low, but the visibility is still good. The city, the beaches, Sugarloaf Mountain, the ocean… It looks beautiful. Even though we are up here very early, there is already a lot going on. It is expected to get even busier later: 10,000 visitors a day. The Cristo is impressive in itself. The small soapstone plaques can only be seen up close; from a little further away, it looks as if it were carved from stone.

We buy a coffee in the small bar below the Cristo. Luckily, we do not buy anything to eat, because a gang of coatis is stalking anyone with food in their hands. They climb onto the tables and try everything to get their hands on something edible.

We continue into the centre. Here we walk past the theatre and several government and former colonial buildings. The streets are lined with trees or even palm trees. Everything seems incredibly green.

The Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro is a modern, pyramid-shaped church that opened in 1979. Four colorful stained-glass windows facing each other bring light into the dark concrete building, which can accommodate up to 20,000 worshippers.

Our guide tells us many details, both historical and current. The tour is very entertaining. We keep walking and then meet up with our driver again.

The Lapa aqueduct is no longer used for water transport; instead, an old tram runs over it to the higher-lying Santa Tereza district. We walk up the famous Selarón mosaic staircase. The designer of the staircase is the Chilean artist José Selarón. His signature, a pregnant Black woman, is a common sight. He chose this symbol because he always said there was nothing harder than being a Black, pregnant woman. The staircase is decorated with numerous tiles from all over the world. We find Paris, Granada, German cities… It is busy here; we take some photos and slowly walk up the stairs.

Santa Tereza is an old neighborhood with beautiful houses and villas. There are cafés, restaurants, and many nice shops. We like that there are fewer made-in-China plastic goods and more local souvenirs. The old trams rattle along the streets. Between the houses, you can occasionally catch glimpses of the sea or favelas that climb the hillside.

Finally, we drive to Sugarloaf Mountain. The cable car valley station is in Urca. The sun is now fully out, and it is quite warm. In summer, when it gets up to 40 degrees Celsius, I would not want to be here at all. We find the 20-24 degrees Celsius very pleasant.

The first cable car takes us to the “back.” We walk a bit through the forest and see small, very cute monkeys. Then we take the second gondola up to the top. The view is fantastic. Copacabana Beach is right at our feet. On the other side, Botafogo Beach stretches all the way to the city centre and the domestic airport. What a view…

Surfing at Ipanema

On Friday, our alarm clock wakes us up early because we want to go surfing at Ipanema Beach. The sky still has a slight pink hue, but there are already a few surfers frolicking in the waves.

It takes a while for us to get back into the swing of things. After that, though, it is already going better than in Portugal. However, it is exhausting. We enjoy waiting outside in the group for the next wave, then feeling the push and getting up. Sometimes it works well; sometimes we quickly fall back into the water.

There are a few photographers on the beach who will later sell their photos. We find a few pictures of ourselves and buy them, partly because we do not have any photos from our first surfing trip in Portugal.

By nine o’clock we are exhausted and walk into Ipanema for breakfast. We have earned it. We are sore in our bones, but at the same time we feel full of energy.

Saturday is our departure day. However, we have time until noon, and since we usually wake up quite early in South America, we want to take advantage of it. So we walk a bit and stay in Copacabanda for breakfast. On the way back, we walk through the surf one last time. A few weeks ago, we swam on the other side of the Atlantic. That is so incredible to think about.

What a wonderful time we have had here. We both really enjoyed Rio de Janeiro and already talk about a future Brazilian holiday.

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Sevilla

Mmm… Sevilla… we were here last year for Easter, and we had immediately fallen in love with the city. This time, we are taking advantage of the time again before we head to Granada to visit family and we are spending a few days here.

Mustard yellow, blood orange, white… The houses shine so beautifully in the sun. Narrow streets, wider avenues, and small squares alternate. The Moorish influences in the architecture are visible everywhere. It is simply lovely to walk through the city. The cathedral is huge and looks so impressive.

We are enjoying our time here so much, it is already quite hot. But we keep walking through parks, sitting in the shade, enjoying the coolness by the fountain. Swifts dart by. Large trees provide shade. What a lovely start to our vacation.

La Carbonería is a flamenco bar that we also visited last year. The dancing is always so impressive here. The energy in the room is amazing and always moves me so much. We stay for two performances, have a beer, enjoy the atmosphere, and then walk back through Sevilla at night.

Granada

On Saturday morning, we walk to the Albaicín. The white houses shine in the sun as we walk the cobbled streets and alleys leading up the mountain. The San Nicolás viewpoint is always crowded, but still so beautiful. Behind the Alhambra lie the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains. The views are spectacular. I can never get enough of the Alhambra views and the white houses and alleys of the Albaicín.

In the evening, we come back here and drink a glass of wine overlooking the Alhambra. We are enjoying the weekend together and spending lots of time at the playground, in the city, and at home. It is so lovely to combine family visit and our holiday.

The first week in Southern Spain was a wonderful start to our holiday. Now we are looking forward to Portugal.

Algarve – Faro

It is mid-afternoon by the time we arrive in Faro. It feels good to finally get off the bus: to get some fresh air, to stretch our legs. The smell of the sea is in the air, and the seagulls are squawking. We are very happy to be back by the sea, and Faro seems small and still a bit sleepy.

This evening, we eat at a nice restaurant and enjoy grilled sardines. A final evening stroll takes us to the sea. However, the water is far out in the lagoon. The evening light casts a magical glow over everything. We could walk and talk for hours…

In the morning we take a stroll along the water, through the old town and enjoy the quiet atmosphere after the crowds in Sevilla and Granada.

Algarve – Cavoeiro

We stay in Cavoeiro for two nights because we want to hike along the cliffs to Praia da Marinha, the most beautiful beach in the Algarve, so they say.

The path leads along the coast with wonderful views over the ocean. At the beginning, it is not that hot yet. We walk under pine trees, and the sweet Mediterranean scent fills the air. At the first beach we pass, I immediately jump into the cooling water. The Atlantic is incredibly salty and wonderfully cool. What a perfect start into the day.

Between Benagil and Praia da Marinha, the path is quite busy and the water is quite crowded too with boats, kayaks and jet skis. The cave/beach of Benagil is only accessible by water and lots of people want to see it.

The views from the cliffs are magnificent, and we take a lunch break in the shade on the Marinha Beach. Sardinhas, tomatoes, small cucumbers, bread… It tastes delicious. Afterwards, we dive into the cool water. The Atlantic is so refreshing. It is just what we need on such a hot day of hiking. Beyond the beach, it calms down again. We walk a bit further along the coast and then order a Bolt for the return trip.

Algarve – Sagres

A Bolt takes us to Portimão, from where we take the bus to Sagres. Sagres is the southwestern most tip of Europe and known for its surfing.

I have always wanted to try surfing, and here I finally get the chance. The next morning, we meet at the surf shop at 8:30 a.m. There are a few other people with us who are surfing for the first time. We are absolutely thrilled. After some theory, we hit the water and barely take a break until lunchtime. It is so much fun.

However, our muscles are really sore by the afternoon. Surfing is quite tiring. Nevertheless, we want to surf for another day. And then a third day…

Praia de Tonel is our home for the three days. We surf, we watch the others… we soak up the atmosphere… It is so much fun and one evening we come here with our dinner and enjoy the sunset.

What a wonderful time in the Algarve. The sea, the coast, the light, the colours… and above all, the surfing… We enjoyed our time here so much.

Lisboa

After our wonderful surfing, we now head north towards Lisbon.

The sun is greeting us in the morning as we walk through the city towards Alfama. The various viewpoints invite us to take a break. From a small shop we buy some apricots and eat them in the shade with the city stretching out in front of us. The red roofs shine in the sun. It looks wonderful. We need a moment to adjust to the city, to the many people after our relaxed beach time.

A ride on one of the old trams is somehow part of Lisbon. The cool breeze blows through the open windows as we travel through the narrow streets. The city looks beautiful from every angle.

We also take a trip to Belén. Unfortunately, the tower is covered in scaffolding, but we enjoy the tram ride there and a windy walk along the promenade. We had so many delicious pasteis de nata this trip that we give the bakery, which supposedly invented this delicious pastry and the long line a skip.

Coimbra

Our next stop is Coimbra. One evening we go to an old chapel for a fado performance. I recognize some of the songs from my mother’s fado CD. It is a really beautiful evening. Otherwise, Coimbra unfortunately seems quite dead. So many houses are dilapidated and empty. Apart from the university and the main street, hardly anything seems to have been renovated. In the evenings, when the day-trippers are gone, it becomes empty and quiet, almost too quiet.

Aveiro

Our next stop, Aveiro, on the other hand, seems much livelier. A friend had pointed us to this seaside town and we can see why. There are several canals that run through the city with boats sailing on them. And there are lots of pretty houses and small shops. We enjoy our time here and soak up the sunshine on the beach and in the old town.

We check into our accommodation at 2 p.m. and less than half an hour later we are at the beach. The fine sandy beach is separated from the town by dunes, and a wooden boardwalk makes walking easier. A few surfers are taking advantage of the waves. We simply go for a swim and then sit in the shade of a bar, enjoying what is probably our last beach day of our holiday.

Porto

From Aveiro, we travel to Porto, our last stop. We arrive directly at São Bento Station, with its beautiful blue tiles in the main hall. Since we still have some time before check-in, we grab something to eat at the nearby market. The food has been so delicious these last few weeks. We have eaten a lot of fish and enjoyed the fresh food.

Walking through Porto is a constant up and down. We walk on both the lower and upper levels of the Ponte Luís I over the Douro River. The narrow, colourful house facades glow in the evening light. Very close to our accommodation, we find a nice bar in a square with an olive tree and join the many locals in an aperitivo before dinner. There are so many lovely cafés and restaurants in the city.

We enjoy the last few days of our holiday, walking through many charming streets, admiring the colourful facades, sitting in the shade…

Three weeks of holiday in Spain and Portugal went by incredibly quickly. Sevilla, Granada, the Algarve, Lisboa, Porto… what a trip… We had a wonderful time…

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The sun is shining from the early morning sky and it looks like it is the perfect day for a day trip to Gozo. We are taking the fast ferry from Valletta with quite a few other people. The views of Malta on the left-hand side are beautiful. It is like a sight-seeing tour from the water. We even see dolphins in the channel as we pass Comino.

Hiking to Ramla Beach

From Mgarr we head straight to the San Blas Cove. The streets through the villages in Gozo are so small. I am glad that I am not driving this time. As we get out of the car we are greeted by the blue sky, the rolling green hills and the blue sea stretching out in front of us. It looks like a painting.

We follow the steep path down to the waterline. Since it is still April it is all very quiet. We only stay for a short moment before we head up the hill on the other side. In Malta, when it says “uphill” it usually means quite steep. We are out of breath and sweaty by the time we reach the top. Lizards are running in different directions, flowers are blooming. It is such a wonderful spring day.

As we get closer to the Tal-Mixta Cave the rental cars parked along the street are a clear sign that this is a popular tourist spot. I have been here a few times and the view never gets old. Stepping through the small entrance in the back and then the orange Ramla Beach, the blue sea and the green hills come into view. All framed by the dark rim of the cave. What a view.

We hike the path down to the bay and find a spot along the beach. Perfect time for a break, a swim and a snack. The water is still cold, but it is so refreshing and clear. We are so happy that we decided to come to Gozo today.

Victoria

After lunch in our favourite pizza place we walk up to the Citadella to enjoy the 360° views of the island. Walking on top of the wall, we can see the sea in all directions. I love coming up here, it always feels like a step back in time.

With an ice cream in our hand we continue our walk through the Old Town. The winding alleys are full of beautiful houses. The colours of the balconies and doors shine in the sunlight. The different door knockers add local charm and make for perfect photo opportunities.

Cliff Walk

To end our wonderful trip to Gozo, we head out to Mgarr ix-Xini. From here we follow the coastline all the way to the harbour in Mgarr. The view over to Comino and Malta is so pretty. The soft afternoon light bathes everything in a golden light. What a view.

The coastal path winds along through low shrubs and over rocks. It is the perfect ending to our day. We even get the timing right with our ferry back. It is quite busy at the terminal and we are happy that we bought our tickets already in advance.

On the ferry back we sink back into the seats, close our eyes with a smile on our faces and think back on the beautiful day we have had…

Another lovely hike in Malta is from Marsaxlokk to Marsaskala (or vice versa).

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The sun is shining, the first almond blossoms are out and a little stream is running next to our path. We have been walking for a few hours and we are still finding our rhythm. For the next six days we will be hiking around Imlil and we are really looking forward to it. The high peaks of the Atlas Mountains are still covered in snow and serve as an impressive backdrop. Small villages dot the valley, where rivers are running and the first sign of the spring‘s green is visible.

But let’s start at the beginning:

We arrived in Morocco a day late due to a strike, but happy that everything went well. In Casablanca, we board the train and enjoy the view. We stay in Marrakech by evening and are simply happy that everything went so well today. We stroll through the alleys and enjoy the warmth of the last rays of sunshine, peer into the windows of the small shops, and look for a restaurant.

The Mountains Are Calling…

On Wednesday, we meet up with our friends at the parking lot. Our driver takes us up into the mountains to Imlil. For the next six days, we will hike through the Atlas Mountains. The snow-capped Mount Toubkal looms before us at 4,176 meters.

In Imlil, we meet our guide and three other men who are leading our three mules. What a luxury not to have to carry our backpacks.

Leaving Imlil, we walk steadily uphill until we reach a pass. Here we meet the mules and take a lunch break. What a wonderful place. The sun is shining, the red mountains around us, the blue sky… We are given a proper meal cooked on a gas stove. How nice to meet again after last year’s unforgettable week on the Isle of Skye.

Then we continue along the slope. Very little grows up here. A few prickly little bushes and the occasional old, gnarled juniper tree. Walnut and almond trees grow in the valleys, along with all sorts of other things the people in the villages grow. Water flows here, and it’s greener.

On we walk…

On the second and third days, we sleep in very basic accommodations. A mattress on the floor and simple blankets. We sleep huddled together under three blankets with all our clothes on. There is always a warm shower, though, and a wood-burning stove in the dining area.

The remote villages seem very poor and simple. The traces of the earthquake a few years ago are still clearly visible. Some houses have collapsed, and families are still living in tents. Few women are to be seen; occasionally, a door opens slightly as we walk past, and a face peeks out.

It is quite cold in the evenings and at night. But during the day, in the sun, we walk in T-shirts. Especially when the mountain climb is steep, as it was on the second day. Leaving the village, we hike up to 2400m. We feel the altitude and need a break every now and then. Occasionally goats and their shepherds pass us. The sounds of the little goats calling for their mothers are following us for quite a while.

On the third day, we even climb to 2700m. Every day, we cross a pass into the next valley. On the fourth and fifth days, we buy orange juice at the top of the pass. A man, a donkey, a few oranges… that’s all we need. We enjoy the view and the fresh juice. We are amazed at the changing landscape. Some valleys are bare, others have a river running through, the trees and bushes lining the path…

We have three mules with us and they carry not only our luggage, but also our kitchen supplies and water. In the morning the guides surpass us at some point, so that by the time we reach our lunch spot, they are already busy preparing our food and tea. In the afternoon they usually catch up with us again at some point and we sometimes arrive at our guest house together.

Snow in March?

What weather… the sun shines every day. And when it gets darker on the third day and the clouds are rolling in, we cannot believe it when it starts to snow. We are wearing our rain jackets and the backpack covers. Up at the pass, an icy wind blows, and the flakes dance in the breeze. Further down into the valley, the snow continues, and soon the landscape is blanketed in white. It is wonderful for hiking. We enjoy it. By the time we get to the guesthouse, it has stopped.

We are well catered for in terms of food: Breakfast is usually served at 8 a.m. Later our lunch is served in a beautiful spot and consists of   rice and vegetables along with tea and fruits for dessert. What a luxury. In the afternoon, once we have reached our Guesthouse, we always enjoy some popcorn with tea and then some delicious dinner in the evening.

We are thrilled with our mules. They carry up to 150 kg up and down the mountains. At some point in the morning, they overtake us. At midday, they graze nearby and then usually overtake us again on the trail. If the trail allows, the guides ride, otherwise they walk alongside. The mules are pretty obedient to their every command, which impresses us. No need for sticks to prod them.

Marrakech

On the 6th day of hiking, after lunch, we return to Marrakech. The many people, the mopeds and scooters driving through the narrow alleys of the souqs… what a difference to the mountains…

We have a free day in Marrakech before our return flight, and we enjoy wandering through the various markets. The colours, the cats, the smells, the people… There is so much to see and take in.  In the afternoon, we drink Berber tea overlooking the large Jemma el Fna square. It is quite hot and it feels wonderful to rest a bit and enjoy the views.

In the evening, we meet for one last dinner together. We had a lot of fun together, chatting and laughing. Us three girls are glad we invited the men to join us on this hiking adventure.  

Today, after a leisurely breakfast, we head back to Germany. We really enjoyed our holiday and are looking forward to returning to our little house in Malta.

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