We have been looking forward to our holiday in Japan for so long…

12 hours 20 minutes of flight time sounds long, but it actually went by relatively quickly. On the landing approach we even saw Mount Fuji rising out of the clouds. How surreal to be finally here…

Our two week long trip will lead us to Tokyo, Fujiyoshida, Takayama, Shirakawago, Kanazawa, Kyoto and finally Osaka.

Arriving in Tokyo

We start our venture into Tokyo with an evening stroll through Ikebukuro. The lights are slowly coming on and the streets are crowded. Before we go to dinner, we walk to Zoshigaya Kishimojin Temple. The red torii arches stand protectively around the 400-year-old gingko. The residential area is quiet and smaller houses are lined up close together. What a contrast to the busy and illuminated streets a little further.

We can hardly believe we only arrived this morning. We are soaking up all the sights, the noises, the smells. Today, everything is still filtered through the haze of jet lag, but we are so happy to be here.

After a small breakfast at the hotel we set off for Ningyocho. It is Sunday morning and the metro is pretty empty. The streets are also still a bit sleepy at this time of day.

We pass a temple and walk through small streets with small houses. It is warm and we are enjoying the sun. A neighborhood group is armed with brooms and dustpans and keeps the neighborhood clean. I love Japan.

We walk along the river to Akihabara, into the anime district. Neon signs with colorful anime characters look down on us from almost every building facade. We walk a little further to a nice café and take a break with a matcha latte and iced tea.

A ceremony takes place at the Kando shrine. Men and women dressed in traditional clothing dance in a circle to the rhythmic beat of the drum. We watch for a while and then walk further into the Kando district. There are many bookstores and used bookstores, stationery and craft shops. It is nice to just stroll along and have a look into a few of the shops. After our lunch it is early afternoon and we head back for a siesta. The jet lag is still noticeable.

Exploring Shinjuku & Shibuya

On Monday we go to Shinjuku. The packed trains are definitely part of the cultural experience. We walk through the colorful district dotted with high-rise buildings. A large Godzilla statue looks down on passers-by from a high-rise building. We want to come here again in the evening, then it will certainly be even more impressive.

We continue on to Meiji Shrine. Stepping into the park, we feel like the green swallows us.  The large trees form a green canopy through which not a single drop of rain falls. A former emperor and his wife found their final resting place in the shrine. We enjoy the green contrast to the crowded city, as Tokyo stretches to the horizon. By the time we emerge from the green jungle, it has stopped raining.

We continue walking to Shibuya.  Our lunch spot hunt leads us to an inconspicuous Japanese izakaya. You have to get used to the loud greetings and farewells from all the employees. We translate the Japanese menu cards using Google Picture Translate and select two set menus with fish. After only two days it is safe to say that we love the culinary experiences so far. Everything is so delicious.

Shibuya Crossing is a famous intersection that thousands of people cross every day. When the light is green, pedestrians walk across the intersecting zebra crossings. It is impressive, so many people are taking photos and walking across, or just stopping on the sidewalk for a better view.

We go back to Shinjuku in the evening. Now the lights are on and it looks impressive here too when the pedestrian lights turn green. Omoide Yokocho Street is now lit up, restaurants are open and people are pushing their way through the narrow alley. Colorful lanterns dangle in the wind and create a beautiful atmosphere. We eat a little further in a delicious restaurant and then walk a bit through the colorful, illuminated district. There is so much to see and marvel at.

Tokyo is full of people, full of high-rise buildings, full of colorful advertisements… and then there are districts with smaller houses, but always densely populated. We really enjoyed the three days here, but we are also looking forward to leaving the city and discovering other corners of Japan.

A View of Mount Fuji

The predicted rain is here. Our next stop is Fujiyoshida at the foot of Mount Fuji and known for its good views of the mountain.

Even though we only arrive at the bus terminal five minutes before departure, we still manage to catch the 9am bus. Everything is so wonderfully efficient in Japan. The two hour bus ride goes by relatively quickly. It rains every now and then, green mountains rise around us as cities and rice fields alternate.

Our hostel in Fujiyoshida is very nice and so is our lunch spot. In the small restaurant, we take off our shoes and sit on tatami mats for our set meal with grilled mackerel and chicken, miso soup, rice and some coleslaw.

Since it still looks friendly, I make my way to Arakurayama-Sengen Park and the Chureito Pagoda. The steps up to the pagoda are steep and there are warnings about monkeys and a bear in the area. In this weather they probably stay hidden. Even without a view of the mountain, it is a beautiful place and I sit here for a while.

It rains all through the night and so our surprise is even greater when we wake up the next morning to blue skies and sunshine. It is still early so we walk again to the pagoda with the beautiful view of Fuji. We enjoy the peace and quiet, marvel at the picturesque mountain and the pretty pagoda, let the sun shine on us… what a gift… we really didn’t expect that. Mount Fuji looks so majestic…

Into the mountains – Takayama

The journey from Fujiyoshida is incredibly easy. In total we are on the road for almost six hours. But it does not feel like that at all. We only have about ten minutes of transfer time and sometimes we even have to buy tickets. In Japan this is not a problem. Google Maps even tells you which compartment you should use for optimal transfers.

Our journey takes us past rice fields, cherry trees, towns… At the end we take the bus into the Japanese Alps. A number of reservoirs run along the road. Monkeys cross the path, narrow tunnels require careful circling past each other.

We reach Takayama in the early afternoon. The sun is shining and after leaving our backpacks at the hotel, we make our way to the old town. Dark wooden houses are lining up one after the other, small canals flow along the streets. There are a lot of tourists here and a lot of cute shops. We stop at a nice café and enjoy incredibly good chocolate cake and iced matcha latte. The Japanese really take their kitchen art very seriously.

Hida beef is famous in the mountains and tonight we are having a really good dinner. After our delicious meal, we walk a bit through the dark alleys. The bats are flying above us.

We sleep in a traditional Japanese room. We exchange our shoes for slippers at the entrance to the hotel. And then we leave the slippers outside our room and walk barefoot on our tatami mats. Only the toilet here isn’t really Japanese. No music, no spray and dry functions, only the seat is heated.

The Miyagawa morning market takes place by the river and we stroll along between the stalls and shops. We buy a croissant filled with red bean paste and continue walking through the town. The modern houses are also cute, small trees grow in towel-sized front gardens, cute cars park in front of them.

We drink tea in a small, hidden café. It is tiny and decorated with various objects. As the other two guests leave, the owner comes over to us. Her name is Mamiko, she is a geisha and teaches music. We speak in broken English and with the help of Google Translate. She paints us and we have a lot of fun. What an encounter. We have met so many wonderful people along the way.

We then follow the Higashiyama Trail past temples and shrines. It is very idyllic here in the morning, with few people around. The afternoon passes quickly as we stroll past the sake brewery and visit some of the many nice souvenir shops.

I was in Takayama and Shirakawago ten years ago. My first flight to Nagoya was extended by a day due to a strike and we went on a little road trip to the Japanese Alps with five colleagues. I remembered Takayama as a nice place in the mountains and it has not changed much.

Further into the mountains – Shirakawago

From Takayama we drive an hour deeper into the mountains to Shirakawago. Wisps of clouds hang between the mountains. The dense green forest looks so amazing and the air is wonderfully fresh as we get off the bus.

The old houses are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site and are very impressive. The houses have very steep thatched roofs because of the heavy winter snow. Rice fields are laid out between the houses and water canals run along the paths. Swallows love the traditional houses and have built their nests in the roofs. There is chirping everywhere.

It starts to drizzle again and we look at one of the houses from the inside. On the ground floor there are photos of the thatching of the roofs. It’s a large group activity with ladders and ropes. The roof has another three levels where tools etc. are displayed. In the past, the villagers bred silkworms and spun silk.

There is a viewpoint just above the village. Shirakawago is really picturesque with its beautiful houses and gardens, rice fields, forest stretching up the mountains and even some snow is visible in the distance. The place is popular with tourists and we meet a few groups, but there is still enough space for everyone.

In the afternoon it rains again and we enjoy our cozy guesthouse. The frogs give a loud concert, clouds drift through the mountains… It is so beautiful up here. We love it.

We had such a lovely time in Takayama and Shirakawago. After Tokyo it was really nice to dive into quieter places and the mountains.

Continuing on to Kanazawa

We continue to Kanazawa and the coast. The bus ride only takes a little over an hour. The city has us again.

Since we cannot get into our Airbnb until 2pm, we walk with our backpacks towards the Higashiyama District. The old houses are part of the Tea District. First, we treat ourselves to some ice cream in the warmth. There are many tourist groups here. A few have rented kimonos for the day and are walking through the former geisha district. You can also be pulled in a rickshaw. There is a lot on offer.

Today is Hyakumangoku Festival. It is the city’s most important festival and there is a big parade from the train station to the Kanazawa Castle ruins in the afternoon. 2000 people take part in the procession. Some are dressed as geisha or samurai. Acrobats demonstrate their skills. Taiko drummers make music. We walk slowly along the parade. The crowning glory is the king on horseback. It is a famous Japanese actor and the crowds go wild to catch a glimpse of him.  The parade commemorates Maeda Toshiie (1537-1599), the first king of the Kaga Dynasty, and his arrival at Kanazawa Castle on 14th June 1583.

We fight our way through the crowd and sit down in a small craft beer bar and drink dark beer from Kanazawa. We really enjoy our vacation in Japan. Every day is filled with beautiful experiences.

It rains heavily at night, but in the morning it is dry again. We always enjoy waking up early and walking through the empty streets. In an inconspicuous residential area we find a small espresso bar. Almond croissant and cheesecake with espresso and matcha latte, what a breakfast…

Then we walk to the castle. The hill is very green and we enjoy walking through the forest. Events related to the festival are taking place around the castle today. We walk a bit through the park and then continue into the Kazuemachi district. The historic districts often only cover a few streets and the old wooden houses are closely packed together. In between the wooden buildings, there are “No Smoking” signs and fire extinguishers everywhere.

The residential areas are equally interesting. The electricity poles and the many cables take some getting used to at the beginning. For an orderly country like Japan, things look a bit messy. Due to the earthquakes, it makes sense to have things above ground, though.

At lunchtime we walk to the Omigachi market. A lot of fish is sold here, but also vegetables. People are standing everywhere eating sushi or grilled fish or queuing for a restaurant. We do that too. It takes longer than we thought, but the food is very good. Green tea and water are included with our fish. The fact that you often take your shoes off in restaurants and then sit at a low table on the floor is actually quite comfortable.

The next morning, before we set off for Kyoto, the earth shakes again. A warning from Ishikawa Province pops up on my phone. Luckily, after a few seconds it is over again.

Exploring Kyoto

Today is already Monday and the last days in Japan are beginning. We had such a wonderful time until now and cannot wait to explore Kyoto and Osaka.

We travel to Kyoto in two and a half hours by Shinkansen and express train. Travelling in Japan has really been so smooth. We cannot stress this enough.

It is pretty warm here and we walk from our accommodation towards the Gion district. There are a lot of tourists here, just as we expected. We let ourselves drift and follow beautiful streets with cute houses and shops. This is how we come to the Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka area. We buy some ice cream and join the crowd up the hill.

Many tourists are dressed in rented kimonos and taking photos. Sometimes it is just the woman and the partner follows behind in western clothing and with a camera. Sometimes the men or entire families are also dressed traditionally and a photographer accompanies them. Renting kimonos seems to be a lucrative business here. We enjoy the area despite the dense crowds. There is so much to see.

On Tuesday we rent a bike and cycle through the city. We pass the former imperial palace and continue on to the Philosopher’s Path. The cherry trees hang low over the canal. A small coati runs past us on the other side. We cycle slowly along, take in the views and then stop at the large Nanzen-ji Temple. We leave the bikes behind and look at the different buildings.

Cycling is very relaxed here. Driving on the left is not a problem for us because of Malta, it is just that the low bikes take some getting used to. I cycled in Kyoto many years ago and remember it as very nice.

In the afternoon, we follow along the river. The headwind is strong and we take a break along the bank. Someone is feeding pigeons. Crows and herons also come by looking for bread. And then the kites come. It’s a wild spectacle. Kamigamo Shrine appears in the distance and from there back the wind pushes us back towards the city.

Because we liked the greenery, the restaurants, the lights on the river so much and we’re not that hungry, we sit down by the river for a simple dinner of onigiri, beer and chocolate. It is so beautiful with the sun sinking and then the lights slowly turning on. A busy muskrat swims by and many other people sit on the shore enjoying the wonderful evening just like we do.

Wednesday morning we get up early because we want to go to the Arashiyama bamboo forest. This is one of the attractions in Kyoto that is very crowded during the day and is best visited in the morning or evening. The sun is shining and when we get off the bus there are not too many people around. We immerse ourselves in the beautiful green of the bamboo forest. It is really pretty here and quite serene.

Our next stop is Kinkaku-ji, the golden temple. This opens at 9am and is immediately full. Many school groups are out and about and we walk through the park around the golden temple in a dense crowd of people. It takes getting used to. The park itself is very beautiful, but the selfie sticks and constant group photos disturb the atmosphere.

For our lunch we go to Nishiki Market. The street is full of food stalls and restaurants. Lots of people are meeting here for lunch and we love the busy atmosphere. As an appetizer we buy grilled crab meat and a tempura shrimp from a small stand. And then we eat udon noodle soup with fish. The food has been really great the last two weeks. We will definitely miss it when we get home.

We discovered the Namura Tailor fabric shop as soon as we arrived in Kyoto and today we buy our fabric. As a Japanese souvenir I will sew us a dress and t-shirts. We are very happy with our purchases.

Now all that is missing is ice cream for dessert. In a side street we find a nice shop with a croissant as an ice cream cone. We particularly like the pictures on the wall. Lots of iconic figures, the Beatles at the zebra crossing, Michael Jackson dancing, Pulp Fiction and Freddy Mercury with the ice cream in the croissant cone.

After so many treats, we are not very hungry in the evening and drink a beer in a small bar before sitting down by the river again. What a lovely last evening in Kyoto. We really enjoyed the city. The mix of touristy and quiet places was perfect for us.

The next morning we get up early again because we want to go to the Fushimi Inari Shrine before checking out of our hotel. The orange torii arches stretch up the mountain and we enjoy climbing up the stairs. The sun filters through the forest and the very close arches. We continue uphill to a viewpoint. Kyoto is not a beautiful city when viewed from above, but there are many beautiful corners to discover.

And finally Osaka

The train ride to Osaka goes by quickly and after we drop off our backpacks at the hotel, we dive into the Dotonbori district. It is very crowded, very colorful, very loud… lots of figures on the facades, lights. There are a lot of people along the canal and we follow the covered shopping street. We walk along, talk, reminisce about our trip, look, are happy that we do not want to buy anything and ask ourselves who is going to buy it all.

In the evening we go out for okonomiyaki, Japanese pancakes with various toppings. Afterwards we take an evening walk through Dotonbori. The lights are on now, lots of people are queuing in front of restaurants, it is crowded and loud. Our last night in Osaka was an experience. The Dotonbori district looks like a big entertainment district, a great contrast to the shrines and greenery in and around Kyoto.

In the morning we take the train to the airport. The sun is shining and we set off on the long journey back to Germany. 13h35min to Munich and then another short hop to Frankfurt.

What a wonderful holiday. We enjoyed the two weeks immensely. So many impressions and experiences. We said for a long time “how nice would it be to go to Japan for a holiday” and now, that we have been, we can safely say that it far exceeded our expectations.

Arigatōgozaimasu

Der Beitrag A Holiday in Japan erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

It is always a wonderful flight when taking someone special with me. This Christmas I have the opportunity to take my husband with me to Hong Kong. I have been to the city many times and I cannot wait to show him all that this “city of skyscrapers” has to offer.

The flight is long and it also takes quite a bit of time until we reach the hotel. We enter our hotel room just at the right time for the blue hour. The last light of day lies on the buildings stretching out in front of our window. The lights of the Harbourfront skyscrapers begin to shine across the water. It looks so beautiful. We are eager to change and go out for dinner.

Christmas Dinner

We walk along the waterfront to the next metro station and cross over to Hong Kong Island. Getting off at Central, we immediately dive into the bright lights and the sounds, the masses of people and the smells of restaurants. It is so busy tonight, more so than any other weekend I have experienced in Hong Kong. We walk around a little before we eat at a cute Japanese restaurant in a small side street, followed by a cocktail at a nearby bar. We chat standing by the bar and listening to the live music. It feels wonderful to share this experience  and it is such a beautiful start to our layover.

Victoria Peak & Central

We are awake early and head out to the Victoria Peak fist thing in the morning. The bus ride up to the peak feels like a sightseeing trip already. The double-decker bus manoeuvres the narrow corners and overhanging trees on the way out of the city and up the hill. It is still a bit chilly as we embark on the 3km loop around the peak and the beginning of the trail lies in the shade. We fast-walk, we talk and we enjoy the views to the south. I love the path and how the city slowly comes into view the further we walk around the hill. There is a lot of activity in the container port and the star ferries cross the harbour between the Kowloon side and Hong Kong Island.

Since we want to go to Central for brunch we take the Peak Tram down the hill. At this time of day there are very few people with us on the train and we can sit in the front with unspoiled views of the steep descent into the dense city.

After a delicious brunch we continue on the Mid-level escalators up the hill. It is a funny experience gliding up the hill between the houses. Lots of people are with us on the escalators. The sun comes out and it is really getting warm as we are walking down the hill again. We stop at a small bakery for some dessert before we head for the metro back to our hotel. Jet lag is forcing us to have a siesta before we head out again in the evening.

A walk through Wan Chai

Taking the Star Ferry across the Harbour is such a nice experience. Especially so, if it is in the evening and the sun is setting. The sky is turning pink and the lights of the skyscrapers are slowly coming on. Standing outside on the deck of the ferry, admiring the cityscape on both sides of the water; life can be so beautiful.

On our walk through Wan Chai we come across a small outdoor shopping and restaurant arcade. There are a lot of people for Christmas related activities. We find a spot on the upper floor of a restaurant close by and admire the fake snow falling on the people below. We have another lovely dinner together and sit for quite a while talking and looking out over the people enjoying Christmas.

There are a number of rooftop terraces all over the city and it is not easy to choose one. We end up on an outside terrace enjoying the view over the Harbour and the illuminated skyscrapers. It does get a bit chilly after a while, but until then we admire the light show from up here.

MongKok and the Ladies Market

The mix of jet lag and the desire to see as much as possible during the layover is a fine balance. We have a cosy long brunch today again. We are just sitting together, chatting and having a good time in Tsim Tsa Tsui

Afterwards we stroll through MongKok. I never tire of looking at the big apartment complexes with their laundry hanging outside. The air conditioning units adorn the buildings like art and the busy streets are excellent for watching the world go by.

The Ladies Market is not that busy today. Maybe Christmas has its effect. A few stalls are selling their souvenirs, bags, electronics and more. We simply have a look and continue on our way. The flower market is very busy and offers all kinds of colourful plants. Orchids seem to be the favourite flowers.

Der Beitrag Christmas in Hong Kong erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

It is such a nice feeling to be back in Hong Kong and to be able to go out again. No more room quarantine. I am very much looking forward to this layover. And on top of that, the weather forecast promises sun and clouds and warm temperatures.

My hotel room has a view of Victoria Harbour and I feel energised to go out for dinner despite the long flight we have had. There are 12 of us as we set out for Wan Chai. Dinner followed by drinks in one of the many bars is exactly what this return to the city asks for.

Victoria Peak

I am equally motivated to do something the next day despite the short jet lagged sleep. The question is more, what to do, what to choose from the many things Hong Kong has to offer. In the end, I head towards Victoria Peak because the weather is clear and promises a good view of the sea, the islands and the city. It is Easter Monday and many people join me on the circular path around the Peak: families, joggers, dog walkers, casual strollers…

I love the lush green, dense forest. Everything feels so verdant and beautiful. The cicadas are giving it their all and give a noisy concert. I can see Lamma Island to the south. In the hazy distance I can even make out further islands and lots of cargo ships passing by. The milky turquoise waters of the South China Sea never cease to fascinate me. It provides such a beautiful backdrop to the scenery.

As I round the corner, more and more of the city comes into view. The skyscrapers stand closely together. Some have balconies, some do not. But they all have their air conditioning units attached on the outside. Ferries criss-cross across the Harbour and are drawing white foamy lines.

The lush steep hills rising directly behind the skyscrapers are what I love so much about Hong Kong. Nature is never far away. My walking speed slows down considerably as I stop at every viewpoint to take photos and admire the ever slightly changing angles of the city. Birds are soaring overhead and the sun is filtering through the clouds. What a beautiful day. I have missed visiting the city so much.

Stanley

It is still early enough in the day for me to continue on to Stanley in the south of the island. Public transport is so convenient in Hong Kong and I especially love the double decker buses on the narrow winding roads. The views from the upper deck are so nice. I am glad that I do not have to drive, that I can simply lean back and enjoy the views.

The market in Stanley has shrunk quite a bit due to covid. It is still fun to stroll along the narrow lane and see all the paraphernalia on offer, though. Clothes, electronics, souvenirs of all shapes and sizes… some glitter, some sparkle and some make noise… I buy some lunch in a supermarket and find a shady spot along the bay. It has gotten really warm and I love to observe the people strolling by.

Kowloon by night

In the evening I meet two of my colleagues and we go out for the light show and then for dinner at the Temple Street Night Market. Here also the impact of Covid can be felt. Not a lot of stalls remain in the street and they only sell cheap souvenirs. We find a small food court and have dinner. Ordering based on the pictures in the menu is always a bit of an adventure, but usually it works.

Lantau Island

Today is our departure day, but we decide to meet in the morning and go to Lantau Island. The sun is shining and it would be a shame not to make use of the day. The ride on the airport bus and then with a smaller one up to the Tian Tan Buddha in Ngong Ping is already a sight-seeing trip in itself. Steep stairs lead up to the Buddha figure and lots of tourists stop for photos along the way. It is getting hot as we stroll around the Buddha. The lush hills are beautiful and the soft shapes of the islands in the distance rise from the haze. It feels like we are on holiday.

The adjacent temple area is where we are headed next. There are a few people, who are burning incense and the sweet smell is filling the air. I love the beautifully painted wooden structures of the buildings. The inside is overflowing with flowers in front of the golden buddhas.

We have a little lunch in the vegetarian café in the temple grounds before we head to the cable car station. On the way back we want to take the gondola. The views are so pretty, despite the haze. Ships are sprinkled over the South China Sea. We are floating above the steep hills and around the corner the airport comes into view. We slowly glide closer and see all the activity out on the airfield. In just a few hours we will be here again for our flight back home.

It was such an intense, activity-filled layover and I loved every minute of it. What a pleasure to be back in Asia and to fully experience it again after the pandemic.

Der Beitrag Back in Hong Kong erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

This Singapore flight will be a special one: my husband will join me. The last Singapore flight before Covid was special because my mother joined me. And now, two and a half years later I am back in this lovely city.

Changing out of my uniform and into a summer dress brushes my tiredness aside and we are ready to explore nearby Chinatown. It is slowly getting dark and the lights along Pagoda Street begin to glow. We walk with the crowds and enjoy the sights, the smells, the many impressions. It is Friday night and the streets and restaurants are full. The Depavali festivities are in full swing at the Hindu Temple and shoes are lining up outside. Everything is steeped in colours, lights, smells of flowers and music. The first evening we are stopping at the Maxwell Food court for dinner and stroll a little around Ann Siang Hill afterwards. What a wonderful start into our Singapore layover.

Saturday, 15^th October. Jetlag is hitting us and we are awake early. Around 6 o’clock we walk to the Marina Bay for the sunrise. The rooster in the little park next to our hotel is greeting the morning. The colours before the sunrise at 6.48am are incredible. There are a few people out with their cameras and joggers and bikers stop at the Merlion for a quick photo before they continue on their way. We sit here for a while and admire the changing colours behind the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and the lotus flower of the ArtScience Museum. It is so beautiful. In all the years that I have come to Singapore, I have never seen the sunrise. What a lovely gift this morning.

We continue our walk along Clarke’s Quay. Four otters cross our paths on their way back into the river. This morning is a wildlife morning in Singapore; first the rooster and now the otters. The city is slowly waking up. There are more people around now and more cars. But it is still so peaceful and quiet. Before heading to the metro to go to Little India we stop for a coffee to fight the tiredness.

Since the Mustafa Shopping Centre only opens at 9.30am, we have a little stroll around the Indian quarter. The temple is already busy with worshipers and little carts sell freshly woven flower garlands. Little trucks deliver goods in the streets, the first shops open, people set out to work or on their weekend routine and tourists stroll by.

Mustafa Centre has not changed at all. Our first stop is the fabric section in the basement. I find some fabric for dresses for my mother and myself. The next summer dresses are waiting to get sewn. I could spend hours in the densely stocked section. There are so many fabrics, colours, materials to peruse. Of course, we also have to stop in the grocery section. Here, lots of Singaporeans are in the middle of their weekly grocery shopping. The carts are piled high. And it is a sight to observe the general buzzing of activities.

Walking from Little India to Arab Street is not that far. There is a lot going on in the little streets around the mosque. The sun is shining and it is pretty hot. We stroll through the small back alleys looking at the graffiti and enjoying our time in this lovely city. It is already early afternoon as we head back to the hotel for a little siesta.

The day is not over yet. After a small siesta we feel refreshed and ready for the rest of the afternoon. On our way to Gardens by the Bay we pass the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and also the adjacent shopping mall. I am happy to see that it is as busy as before the pandemic. Some things do not change much.

The garden is of course busy at the weekend, but a little further from the Supertree Grove it is quieter. We stroll along the paths, sit down in the shade every once in a while and look for a good viewing spot for the light show once it starts getting a little darker. We chat and time passes quickly until a voice suddenly says “welcome to the light show at Gardens by the Bay”. Although I have seen it several times already, I am always amazed by the lights, the music and the general atmosphere. We love it.

It is already 8 o’clock by the time we are walking to the Lau Pa Sat Food court. The smoke rises from the Satay grills outside, people are queuing at the best stalls and the search for a free table can be challenging. We find again some delicious food, a refreshing lime juice and keep telling each other what a wonderful day we have had. We managed to pack so many highlights into one day.

On Sunday we sleep a little longer, which feels nice and still allows us to make the most of our second day in Singapore. We hop on the MRT and go to the Botanic Gardens. After the thunderstorms last night it is very humid today. It only takes a short walk for our shirts to cling to our bodies. So many people put down picnic blankets in the shade and enjoy time with their friends and family.

We continue on to Symphony Lake. The turtles float leisurely in the water or sit on the water’s edge. A male Asian water monitor swims along the shore and attracts the attention of us humans. They look so otherworldly and especially the males are so big. I am always on the lookout for water monitors when I pass the lake here.

The Orchid Garden is always worth a visit. To walk amidst the colourful flowers is so beautiful: yellow and white, orange and red, pink and purple, big or small… We stroll along the paths, sit whenever we find a nice bench with a bit of a view. The humidity in combination with the jetlag is demanding. The back part of the Garden had been under renovation for the last couple of times I visited Singapore. Now it is finally reopened and we are walking through the houses and among the boardwalks. Different orchids, bromeliads and palm trees grow here and create and ever-green jungle.

On the way back to the city centre we get off the train in Bugis. It is so convenient that there are Food courts all over the city. The white Colonial buildings glow in the bright sunlight. On the walk back to the hotel we stop in an air-conditioned mall. It feels so good to cool down a little.

Before flying back in the evening we go on one last stroll through Chinatown. We had such a wonderful time together in Singapore. It was so much fun to show him all my favourite spots. Thank you, Singapore.

Der Beitrag Celebrating my Birthday in Singapore erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

I cannot believe it, but the day has finally come…. We talked so long about it and now I am going to take my mum on a Singapore rotation with me. I take care of her during the long flight, we quickly change into summery clothes and we head out to Chinatown. It is still light outside and just so exciting to be able to show her everything that I love about this city. We stop by the Tooth Relic Temple, stroll past the souvenir shops around Temple and Pagoda Street and listen to the music at the Hindu Temple. Slowly the lights come on and Chinatown is beginning to look magical. I love the colourful shop houses. We stop by the food court and indulge in some delicious Singaporean food and refreshing lime juice. The afternoon/evening already felt like such a wonderful, magical gift.

Today we have breakfast in our room overlooking parts of the harbour, neighbouring skyscrapers and the ships out in the Malakka Street. Afterwards we take the metro to Little India and visit Mustafa Centre. Our first stop is of course the big fabric area in the basement. My mum is wearing a blue shirt made from fabric from here. We take our time to choose two fabrics for new dresses. It is just so beautiful to be able to browse the different aisles with someone, to share this with someone. Of course, we have to stop by the huge supermarket section as well. The amount of people and products is simply overwhelming. We take full advantage of the fact that I know my way around.

On we go through Little India over to Arab Street. It is hot, but that is nothing a little lime juice cannot fix. The Graffiti in the small side street is so cool and colourful. We take our time and truly enjoy the cultural mix the city has to offer.

On our way back we stop by Chinatown and the small fabric market there. I show my mum my favourite haberdashery shop and we buy satin binding for our dresses.  By now our bags are pretty full and we need to drop them off at the hotel.

Before we head to the evening light show at Gardens by the Bay, we stop by the Lau Pa Sat food court. It is quite difficult to choose something because there is so much to choose from. Afterwards we walk along the Bay towards the Marina Bay Sands Hotel. I love being in the Gardens as it slowly gets dark. The smell gets sweeter as it gets darker, the white blossoms glow and then the Supertrees start to glow. The light show tonight is Italian Opera! We cannot believe our luck. It is just so magical. I think I have seen the light show for the fifth time tonight, but I still enjoy it every single time.

A new day in Singapore. We have another fully packed day ahead of us before we have to fly back tonight. Our first stop is the National Orchid Garden in the Botanical Garden. Showing my mum all the lovely orchids has been a long dream. We stroll along the paths and admire the colourful flowers. Hummingbirds whizz past us and butterflies sail between the orchids.

On our way back to the city we stop at City Hall and I show my mum some of the colonial style buildings in the city centre. Strolling along Clarke Quay and over the old Cavenagh Bridge we stop by a food court for lunch. There are so many different skyscrapers; some have plants growing on them, some shimmer blue, red or golden. There is so much to see. We pass the Merlin at the Bay and the Fullerton Hotel.

The last two days were just magical. We walked for miles and miles; we saw and did so much: the different cultural areas, the food courts, the orchids, the cityscape…  In my head I have had this itinerary for years and we had so much fun exploring the city together. I am so glad my mum loved every second of it and enjoyed the trip immensely.

Der Beitrag An extra special Singapore layover erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

It is December 2019 and I am excited to find out where I will be spending Christmas. This year it is going to be in Tehran. It will be my first time there and I am really looking forward to exploring the city a bit.

From my hotel room I can see the mountains to one side and the big city of Tehran to the other. Also the bus station by the highway is within my view. I love being in a new city, a new country, a new culture and trying to figure out the way everything works. A mix of the internet, my trusted offline map and the helpful concierge give me a good head start. Women get on in the front of the bus, men in the back. After a few stops I switch to the Metro. The air is thick with smog and quite a number of people wear masks. My little electronic badge with the public transport ticket is going to serve me well over the next couple of days. In the female metro car you can buy socks, jewellery and make-up among other things. Coat hangers are easily hung on the handrails and display the wares on offer. I feel honoured to get a glimpse of the everyday life.

Over the next couple of days I visit some of the sights in the city. I admire the Golestan palace with its beautiful architecture and mosaics. I pass mosques, churches and a synagogue. I see the big graffiti wishing death upon Iran’s enemies as well as houses covered with Persian scenes and current politicians.  I enjoy walking through the streets and discovering a city on foot. There is a bank on almost every street corner. And I find a street food area close to a park.

The different bazaars are among my favourite places. I love strolling through the narrow and crowded alleyways. There is so much noise, so much to see and discover. As in any good bazaar you can buy anything you wish. I am always on the lookout for fabric and Tehran does not disappoint. I add a beautiful pillowcase to my growing international collection of blue pillows. Dried fruits, pistachios, tea and spices are going to be my Christmas gifts this year.

I want to dedicate a special chapter to the people of Tehran. I met so many wonderful people who all shared a bit of their life with me. An elderly man practices his German with me on a park bench at the Golestan palace. We talk about life in Iran and Germany, about cars, the school system and much more. On the bus young women ask me where I am from and we talk about university. In the bazaar many people are interested where we are from and what we are doing in Iran. Thank you for such a warm welcome.

In the evenings the crew meets up and we go somewhere for dinner. Everyone shares where they have been and what they have done during the day. It is a lovely way to end the day and we talk and laugh a lot. Food is so delicious here. Every night we enjoy a big spread and share. Being away from home for one of the major holidays brings us closer and makes this layover extra special.

Der Beitrag Christmas in Tehran erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

The last couple of times I stayed in the city and this time I want to take the bus out to the MacRitchie Reservoir. The sun is shining as I am heading towards the green lung of the city state.

From the boardwalk along the lake shore I can observe the monkeys above me swinging from tree to tree as well as the turtles and fishes swimming past. Butterflies sail past me and the cicadas give a concert. A small snake lies in front of me on the boards. She is so beautiful with redish-brown markings.

It is Monday morning and I like that I see only few people. From the Jelutong Tower I have a good view over the tree canopies. A slight breeze is blowing up here. That is very welcome. On the railing rests a little green tree snake. She is even more beautiful than the first snake I saw today.

The 12 kilometre loop is mainly in the forest. Being out in the nature is wonderful. After the full flight and the many people in Chinatown it is so nice to enjoy the peace and quiet out here. Sitting on a bench looking over the lake I listen to a podcast and let my mind wander.

Of course, I have to stop by the Mustafa Centre today. A friend of mine asked me if I could buy her some fabric and I take my time choosing. I love the feel of the fabrics, the colours, the small aisles, the stacks of fabric everywhere…

Later I meet a colleague in Chinatown and we take a walk along the shop houses. There are so many cute little shops and cafés. We just stroll along and get lost in the little lanes, catch our breath in Ann Siang Hill Park and continue on. A refreshing matcha latte is just what we need after this. I love these moments of crew life. We might not know each other very well, but often enough we easily fall into conversation and can talk for hours.

Der Beitrag Singapore, my love 4 erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Hello Olivia,

You mentioned wanting to go to Uzbekistan and I thought I might just relate my experience to give you an idea. If you love blue, architecture, tiles, markets… you’re going to love your time along the Silk Road.

So my youngest sister Veronika and I flew to Almaty in Kazakhstan. I have been to Kazakhstan a few times, but it was the first time for her. It was a really relaxed start to our holiday. I know my way around the city and had planned what we could do. The architecture is a mixture of Soviet Russian style houses with Arabic and Chinese influences. The Tin Shan Mountains make for a nice backdrop. In the basement of the Green Bazaar is a small bakery. Every afternoon we stopped there and bought fresh bread right out of the oven. Add a few Samsa (filled bread), cucumbers, figs and apples and we had a wonderful lunch, which we enjoyed on a shaded bench somewhere.

After spending almost 2 days in and around the city we took the night train to Tashkent in Uzbekistan. We slept quite a bit on the train but also had the chance to look out of the window. The slow journey had an almost meditative feel to it. It made for a really good introduction to Uzbekistan. The steppe is very brown and desert like. Every once in a while you see cows, sheep or goats and sometimes small farms or hamlets. Everything is built with mud bricks.

Traveling in general was fun. We found not many people to speak English and if they did, they only knew a few words, much like we don’t know any Russian. But people are very friendly, always helpful and keen on assuring that tourists and guests have a good time. We had so many wonderful encounters and enjoyed ourselves immensely. From Buchara we took a shared taxi to Khiva. The taxis leave from one of the bustleing Bazaar areas. We stood in the shade together with the drivers and waited for our car to fill up. Sadly, we could not communicate much with them. It would certainly have been very interesting to talk to them. At some point we were joined by an elderly lady. She immediately began to talk to us and didn’t care that we didn’t understand her. Some words I had picked up and the rest was filled in by expanding hand gestures. Somehow we made it work.

During those two weeks we ended up traveling by train, both very modern and fast and very old and slow, we took public buses, taxis, shared taxis, collectives and planes and finally
we hiked with a donkey in the mountains.

Our main stops were of course the main cities along the Silk Road: Tashkent, Samarkand, Buchara and Khiva. If you love blue (so many blue tiled buildings), Arabic architecture, Central Asian bazaars, good food (though a bit meat centred)… Uzbekistan is for you. We had a wonderful time. Every day brought something new. The history of these places is fascinating and so old. At some point these lands belonged to the Persian realm and then to the Mongols. Then they created their own kingdom and expanded it all the way to India and Istanbul and Moscow. You can see these influences in the people, the customs, the food and the buildings. The countryside is very dry. Dust is everywhere. And the cities were always built close to an oasis. There, it’s green, there’s agriculture (cotton harvest was in full swing while we were there) and water is flowing. We loved the mix.

We were so in awe of the buildings, the old madrasas (ancient universities) stand so tall and are so intricately decorated, mosques with brick minarets, turquoise tiled domes, highly decorated mausoleums…. And then in the evenings, everything is illuminated. The light show on Samarkand’s Registand place is really something to watch. I’ll attach a few photos for you to get an impression.

Uzbekistan is opening up to more foreign tourists. The infrastructure is slowly building up. We usually stayed in small family run guest houses and felt very welcome. Breakfasts were always a delicious treat. Visitors from a lot of countries don’t need a visa anymore but get a stamp for 30 days at the border. We saw quite a few tour groups. And then there were a few independent travellers, but not so many.

We spent two nights in the mountains and loved the experience. Hiking over the passes that locals use was so cool. Our guide told us many interesting things about the Uzbek everyday life which was very interesting because often we couldn’t talk to the locals. Speaking Russian or even Uzbek would have been really helpful. However, we loved the experience of not being able to speak the language. Somehow it’s amazing what and how you can communicate with people even with the language barrier. We met so many wonderful locals and felt so welcome.

It was a bit of an adventure holiday and we loved every second of it. So many people asked us how we came up with Uzbekistan as our choice of holiday. To be honest I don’t even know. I think I saw photos of Khiva somewhere on Facebook and thought the Silk Road, that’s an idea….

Warm greetings from Khiva, Susanne

Der Beitrag Uzbekistan erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

t’s been a long time, but I’m finally flying to Japan again. The last time I’ve been in Nagoya was in 2015. The flight is long but I feel surprisingly energetic after our arrival. I ignore the fact that it’s 2 o’clock in the morning in Germany and head out to explore a bit of the city.

The streets are lined with colourful signs. Restaurants display their menus in thee windows. I love how real the modelled dishes look. It’s hot in July and when I come across a park I sit down on a bench in the shade, listen to the crickets and read my book for a while. Strolling through a 100 Yen shop is a must for me when I’m in Japan. There are so many different things to admire and buy here: some useful, some not so much.

The next morning I’m taking the 6.20am Shinkansen to Kyoto. The trains are incredible. While they accelerate I get pushed into the seat. Not surprising it only takes half an hour to Kyoto. My next train is a “normal” one. And finally from Kamo I take a bus out to Wazuka. Even tight connections are doable in Japan because trains are so punctual all the time. I love looking out the window, taking in the changing landscape.

It is 9 o’clock and I’m in Wazuka, an old tea village. The valley is famous for its green tea which has been cultivated for about 800 years. At some point the Japanese emperor also received his tea from here. These facts I learn from a visit to the tourism bureau.

Wazuka is made up of several little villages: some are down in the valley along the river, others slope up the hills. Everything is bright and fresh and green. Down by the river there are rice fields between the houses. They smell delicious und the fireflies soar through the air. The perfectly shaped tea fields stretch to the top of the surrounding hills. Traditional and modern houses stand side by side. I love the scenery. It all looks magical.

I’m going to rent a bike today, to see the different tea fields. The tourism bureau even has e-bikes. The minute the back road starts climbing up the hills, I fall in love with the electrical help the battery provides. It’s so hot and humid. I’m sweating, but the breeze is lovely. Every once in a while I need to remind myself to drive on the left side of the road. Yellow flowers provide a bit of colour against the intensely green backdrop of the tea fields.

There aren’t many people around. The crickets sing their loud songs. I’m using the small back roads up in the hills. Occasionally I see workers in the tea fields. The road circles through a lush bamboo forest and I welcome the shade. It’s very idyllic here. At one point I see a monkey cross the road. I take a break in the shade, take out my book and simply enjoy sitting by a Japanese tea field on a hot summer day. What a wonderful day.

I have a map of the area, which helps navigate around the valley. Later in the day I take a left and end up cycling a more adventurous track, which is for the small vehicles of the plantation workers so they can access the smaller, more remote fields. I cycle along a small river through the forest. It’s wonderfully cool here. After a while I get back onto the main road. Even here there aren’t many cars passing me.

The tea harvest starts in April. Some of the fields have already been harvested and are darker green. Others are still bright green as they haven’t been harvested yet. This makes for a nicely coloured contrast.

I don’t know what I like better: the tea fields in the hills or the rice fields in the valley. I cool my legs in one of the watering canals for the rice fields. 37 degrees Celsius and 86% humidity is hot.

Before I return my bike I stop at a small café. I’ve got to try the tea from the area of course. Iced Matcha is THE perfect refreshment after cycling and sweating a lot today.

During the day I noticed that some tea fields had the tea bushes covered in black foil. Here in the café/shop I learn why. Gyokuro tea is of the highest quality because the young leaves get protected from the sun. That makes the tea very mild and aromatic. Some of the other types of tea planted in this valley are Sencha, Matcha, Hojicha and Kabusecha.

My return journey to Nagoya starts with the bus again. One last look onto the tea fields… Then I take the slower trains via Kameyama. The landscape is dominated by rice fields and villages. The sun is setting and everything shimmers golden. What a wonderful day I have had!!

Der Beitrag A trip to Japanese Teafields  erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

I am in Beirut!! I am sitting on my balcony on the sixth floor and look over the city towards the sea. It is 7.30 in the evening and still 18 degrees Celsius. I hear the street noise from down below and the wonderful orthodox chanting from the church across the street has just died down. The moon is shining over the bay. I cannot wait to explore the country over the next couple of days.

The sun is waking me up the next day. Exploring the city is number 1 on my list today. I am starting out in Ashrafieh, my quarter. Old houses, ranging from beautifully renovated to falling apart, are standing next to newer apartment buildings.

Mosques are standing next to churches and roman ruins. I’m strolling along the roads and alleys. If I like the feeling of a certain street I follow it and see where it leads me. I try to avoid the main avenues. Traffic is heavy and loud and slightly chaotic to the untrained eye. The public transport network was never fully rebuilt after the war. Honking taxis, private cars and small minibuses all try to maintain their space on the streets.

Souk El Tayeb is described as Beiruts first Farmers Market. Locals do their shopping here. A mix of Arabic, French and English is spoken. Food, honey, spices, olive oil, bread and so much more is being sold at the stalls. It smells heavenly. I love trying different foods and observing people doing their shopping.

I continue on through the streets and pass the infamous Holiday Inn hotel. The bombed out skeleton still stands as a reminder of the war. During the day I pass a few houses still showing signs of the war. It is a colourful mix of styles and houses in Beirut. Along the Corniche there are many Beirutis enjoying the sun and the sea. A café with direct view of the Raouche rocks is where I spend a part of my afternoon. Feels like holiday….

What a first day. I loved getting to know the city a bit and cannot wait to explore some more over the coming days. Ending the day on my balcony is quickly becoming a ritual. It gets dark and the lights go on in the city. My neighbours and I share oranges and exchange stories.

Souk El Ahab and the Bourj Hammoud quarter are on today’s list. I love seeing all the different parts of the city, chatting with locals and observing customs. At some point I stop at a bakery and buy delicious fig biscuits. At first I am a bit confused by the mixing of the currencies. Lebanese pounds and US dollars can both be used and you sometimes get change back half one currency and half the other. But after a while I memorise the fixed exchange rate and it gets easier.

I am always looking for small cafés and beautiful places to rest for a while. Book cafés hold a very special place in my heart. In Mar Mikael I find a wonderful café and spend quite a bit of time here. It is very relaxing. A perfect Sunday.

I am getting used to the daily power cuts. The schedule on the fridge serves as a daily reminder when the cuts happen. My torch is always by my side and the power bank always charged. Power is something that we take so much for granted. It is educational to live like this for a while. When there is no power I love sitting out on my balcony listening to the city sounds while looking over to the snowy mountains and the Mediterranean.

After two days in Beirut I take the bus up the coast to Byblos, or Jbeil. I need a moment to find the right bus, but once we drive out of the city I love the views of the sea to the left and the mountains to the right.

Byblos is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth. The earliest traces of human settlement are traced back to 6000 BC. Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, crusaders, Mamelukes, Osmans and many more lived here, built and destroyed…

I stroll through the city. After the noise and the traffic fumes of Beirut I feel like I am in the countryside. The smells of orange blossom and jasmine hang in the air. Little alleyways make the old town accessible. Old men sit in the harbour and repair their nets and boats. Restaurants sit on the shore line one next to the other. It feels like a small sea side town. I meet a friend from my flight to Beirut and together we spend a very relaxing day here. We walk through the town and the excavation site, sit on the beach and have delicious food.

Another day trip from Beirut takes me to the mountains. No trip to Lebanon would be complete without seeing the famous cedar trees. And now that I have seen how the public transportation system works I feel more confident in taking the bus to the mountains. Everyone is so helpful and together with my limited Arabic I manage to switch buses and continue on all the way to the El Shouf Reserve.

It is really cold in the mountains. At the coast the temperature was 25 degrees Celsius and now it says 13. I follow the hiking trail and soon I come across the first snow fields. The atmosphere is magical as the cedar trees loom large in the mist. I feel like I am on top of the world and I am the only person there.

Have I mentioned the incredible oranges I have every morning on my balcony for breakfast? Here in Barouk I buy the best ones I had in a long time. So delicious. I chat with the shopkeeper till the bus comes. I have met so many wonderful people here during my stay. It is so interesting to talk to people and get their view on life in Lebanon.

I do not like group tours but today I choose to visit Baalbek, Anjour and Ksara in a small group. After my bus adventures I kind of enjoy leaning back in a minibus and not having to worry about where to get off or what bus to take. Our first stop is a vinery and we learn quite a bit about Lebanese wines and winemaking in the country. Supposedly the Romans already grew vines here. On the Beirut – Damascus road lies Anjour. The city was built because caravan roads intersected here. The snowy mountains serve as a beautiful background. We are a lovely little group and chat quite a bit during the drive.

Through the Beqaa Valley we continue on past military checkpoints to Baalbek. I have seen many Roman ruins around the Mediterranean, but the ones here are incredible. The temples are standing so tall and impressive. I could stay for hours and marvel at the intricate beauty of the walls and columns. The ornaments show the oriental influence. Looking out of the window we get to see quite a bit of Lebanon.

And so I have come to my last day in Beirut. It was an incredible week and I enjoyed it so much. Today I once again walk through the city and visit a few places I have not had the chance to see so far. The National Museum is one of them, also the main mosque and the Zqaq al Blat quarter.

The city offers so many contrasts. I only got a small glimpse of what life is like in Lebanon. I spoke with so many people and loved hearing their stories. All the best to you

Der Beitrag Lebanon erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.