Today is my birthday and my alarm is set to 4.30am to start into a four day trip around Europe. I receive the first gift at 5am when crew scheduling calls and cancels our first flight this morning. We will fly as passengers and I get to sleep for an hour on the plane before the rest of work continues.

Budapest

By lunch time we are in Budapest and I am looking forward to celebrating a bit. Sometimes changing quickly and going out again is just the right thing to do. Today is one of those days. I take the metro for two stations and exit in the centre of the city. The sun is peeking through the clouds and I am enjoying the lovely autumn weather.

As a treat today I looked up one of the grand coffee houses which can be found all over the centre. The art deco style is what attracted me to this particular café and I am sitting down with a coffee, a selection of small pastries and my book. What a lovely gift to myself. I am enjoying my afternoon thoroughly.

After a while the blue sky and evening sun draw me back outside. Strolling through the streets, admiring the beautiful houses… I am losing myself just looking and following wherever the streets lead me. Slowly I am getting tired and so I stop by the supermarket for some dinner and return back to the hotel. A shower and a peaceful dinner on my bed are just the thing after a long day.

Istanbul

Our next stop is Istanbul. Together with two of my colleagues we are soon on the way to the city for an afternoon stroll. We get out of the car at a busy intersection in Karaköy and walk up to the Galata tower. The area is full of restaurants and shops. People are everywhere and for a moment we are a bit overwhelmed. We do not have a clear plan and decide to just stroll along. There is so much to see and as so often with colleagues, the conversation flows easily.

At some point we get hungry and stop at a cantina for some couscous and delicious stuffed wine leaves. Istanbul is an expensive city, I do not remember this from my last visit. The prices in the restaurants and shops are quite high. And still there are so many people with shopping bags around. However, window shopping is free of charge and we indulge in it to our heart’s content.

As we reach Taksim Place we slowly turn back and walk one of the streets, which run parallel to the Bosporus. A few cruise ships line up along the shore. The lights are slowly coming on and the view is spectacular. Across the bridge the Hagia Sophia and Süleymaniye Mosque sit beautifully on the hill. Tourists and locals mingle on the pavements as they all catch the sunset and continue on their way home or to dinner. The atmosphere is so ethereal. We are getting tired, but we still want to walk up to the Hagia Sophia. Last time I was in Istanbul I visited inside and enjoyed it a lot.

On a short-haul tour we often only have limited time in a city. But even a few hours can feel like a small holiday. What a gift.

Sarajevo

Sarajevo was the reason I had requested this tour. I have never been here before and we arrive at 12pm with lots of time for exploration. The walk along the river is already a lesson in history with visible gunshot holes in a few unrenovated buildings dating from the 1990s. A little further, next to one of the bridges is the spot where the Austrian heir to the throne was killed, starting the First World War.

Smaller once-storey buildings dominate the city centre. The pedestrian zone feels a bit like an old bazaar. Cafés are offering Turkish coffee, souvenir shops and restaurants are dominating the scene. The most bizarre souvenir to buy are pens and other things made out of bullet shells.

There are lots of signs explaining the history of certain buildings. Quite a few of the houses were built in the 15th century. The ruins of an old caravanserai are still visible. Churches and Mosques characterise the cityscape. It feels more arabic or turkish to me than other countries in the Balkan. Turkish coffee, baklava, Turkish delight… It is fascinating to walk around and take it all in.

I stroll along and enjoy the city, even though it is a bit greyer and colder than my other stops during this trip. A little up the hill, past a cemetery I admire the view over the city. The contrast between the Byzantine part of the city and the Austrian Imperial influence is clearly visible. From here it feels eerie to imagine how the city was besieged from the mountains surrounding it during the Yugoslavian war.

I meet one of my colleagues in a cute restaurant for dinner. We share delicious Bosnian food and talk about the things we have seen today. After the early 2am start this morning in Istanbul, we are both eager to get back to the hotel for some much needed rest.

I have had such a wonderful four day short-haul trip. It was the perfect mix of old and new, together and alone, working and free time, things I have done and seen before and new adventures…. I thoroughly enjoyed these four days…

Der Beitrag A Birthday Trip to Budapest, Istandbul & Sarajevo erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Sevilla

Mmm… Sevilla… we were here last year for Easter, and we had immediately fallen in love with the city. This time, we are taking advantage of the time again before we head to Granada to visit family and we are spending a few days here.

Mustard yellow, blood orange, white… The houses shine so beautifully in the sun. Narrow streets, wider avenues, and small squares alternate. The Moorish influences in the architecture are visible everywhere. It is simply lovely to walk through the city. The cathedral is huge and looks so impressive.

We are enjoying our time here so much, it is already quite hot. But we keep walking through parks, sitting in the shade, enjoying the coolness by the fountain. Swifts dart by. Large trees provide shade. What a lovely start to our vacation.

La Carbonería is a flamenco bar that we also visited last year. The dancing is always so impressive here. The energy in the room is amazing and always moves me so much. We stay for two performances, have a beer, enjoy the atmosphere, and then walk back through Sevilla at night.

Granada

On Saturday morning, we walk to the Albaicín. The white houses shine in the sun as we walk the cobbled streets and alleys leading up the mountain. The San Nicolás viewpoint is always crowded, but still so beautiful. Behind the Alhambra lie the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains. The views are spectacular. I can never get enough of the Alhambra views and the white houses and alleys of the Albaicín.

In the evening, we come back here and drink a glass of wine overlooking the Alhambra. We are enjoying the weekend together and spending lots of time at the playground, in the city, and at home. It is so lovely to combine family visit and our holiday.

The first week in Southern Spain was a wonderful start to our holiday. Now we are looking forward to Portugal.

Algarve – Faro

It is mid-afternoon by the time we arrive in Faro. It feels good to finally get off the bus: to get some fresh air, to stretch our legs. The smell of the sea is in the air, and the seagulls are squawking. We are very happy to be back by the sea, and Faro seems small and still a bit sleepy.

This evening, we eat at a nice restaurant and enjoy grilled sardines. A final evening stroll takes us to the sea. However, the water is far out in the lagoon. The evening light casts a magical glow over everything. We could walk and talk for hours…

In the morning we take a stroll along the water, through the old town and enjoy the quiet atmosphere after the crowds in Sevilla and Granada.

Algarve – Cavoeiro

We stay in Cavoeiro for two nights because we want to hike along the cliffs to Praia da Marinha, the most beautiful beach in the Algarve, so they say.

The path leads along the coast with wonderful views over the ocean. At the beginning, it is not that hot yet. We walk under pine trees, and the sweet Mediterranean scent fills the air. At the first beach we pass, I immediately jump into the cooling water. The Atlantic is incredibly salty and wonderfully cool. What a perfect start into the day.

Between Benagil and Praia da Marinha, the path is quite busy and the water is quite crowded too with boats, kayaks and jet skis. The cave/beach of Benagil is only accessible by water and lots of people want to see it.

The views from the cliffs are magnificent, and we take a lunch break in the shade on the Marinha Beach. Sardinhas, tomatoes, small cucumbers, bread… It tastes delicious. Afterwards, we dive into the cool water. The Atlantic is so refreshing. It is just what we need on such a hot day of hiking. Beyond the beach, it calms down again. We walk a bit further along the coast and then order a Bolt for the return trip.

Algarve – Sagres

A Bolt takes us to Portimão, from where we take the bus to Sagres. Sagres is the southwestern most tip of Europe and known for its surfing.

I have always wanted to try surfing, and here I finally get the chance. The next morning, we meet at the surf shop at 8:30 a.m. There are a few other people with us who are surfing for the first time. We are absolutely thrilled. After some theory, we hit the water and barely take a break until lunchtime. It is so much fun.

However, our muscles are really sore by the afternoon. Surfing is quite tiring. Nevertheless, we want to surf for another day. And then a third day…

Praia de Tonel is our home for the three days. We surf, we watch the others… we soak up the atmosphere… It is so much fun and one evening we come here with our dinner and enjoy the sunset.

What a wonderful time in the Algarve. The sea, the coast, the light, the colours… and above all, the surfing… We enjoyed our time here so much.

Lisboa

After our wonderful surfing, we now head north towards Lisbon.

The sun is greeting us in the morning as we walk through the city towards Alfama. The various viewpoints invite us to take a break. From a small shop we buy some apricots and eat them in the shade with the city stretching out in front of us. The red roofs shine in the sun. It looks wonderful. We need a moment to adjust to the city, to the many people after our relaxed beach time.

A ride on one of the old trams is somehow part of Lisbon. The cool breeze blows through the open windows as we travel through the narrow streets. The city looks beautiful from every angle.

We also take a trip to Belén. Unfortunately, the tower is covered in scaffolding, but we enjoy the tram ride there and a windy walk along the promenade. We had so many delicious pasteis de nata this trip that we give the bakery, which supposedly invented this delicious pastry and the long line a skip.

Coimbra

Our next stop is Coimbra. One evening we go to an old chapel for a fado performance. I recognize some of the songs from my mother’s fado CD. It is a really beautiful evening. Otherwise, Coimbra unfortunately seems quite dead. So many houses are dilapidated and empty. Apart from the university and the main street, hardly anything seems to have been renovated. In the evenings, when the day-trippers are gone, it becomes empty and quiet, almost too quiet.

Aveiro

Our next stop, Aveiro, on the other hand, seems much livelier. A friend had pointed us to this seaside town and we can see why. There are several canals that run through the city with boats sailing on them. And there are lots of pretty houses and small shops. We enjoy our time here and soak up the sunshine on the beach and in the old town.

We check into our accommodation at 2 p.m. and less than half an hour later we are at the beach. The fine sandy beach is separated from the town by dunes, and a wooden boardwalk makes walking easier. A few surfers are taking advantage of the waves. We simply go for a swim and then sit in the shade of a bar, enjoying what is probably our last beach day of our holiday.

Porto

From Aveiro, we travel to Porto, our last stop. We arrive directly at São Bento Station, with its beautiful blue tiles in the main hall. Since we still have some time before check-in, we grab something to eat at the nearby market. The food has been so delicious these last few weeks. We have eaten a lot of fish and enjoyed the fresh food.

Walking through Porto is a constant up and down. We walk on both the lower and upper levels of the Ponte Luís I over the Douro River. The narrow, colourful house facades glow in the evening light. Very close to our accommodation, we find a nice bar in a square with an olive tree and join the many locals in an aperitivo before dinner. There are so many lovely cafés and restaurants in the city.

We enjoy the last few days of our holiday, walking through many charming streets, admiring the colourful facades, sitting in the shade…

Three weeks of holiday in Spain and Portugal went by incredibly quickly. Sevilla, Granada, the Algarve, Lisboa, Porto… what a trip… We had a wonderful time…

Der Beitrag A Holiday in Andalusia & Portugal erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

The sun is shining from the early morning sky and it looks like it is the perfect day for a day trip to Gozo. We are taking the fast ferry from Valletta with quite a few other people. The views of Malta on the left-hand side are beautiful. It is like a sight-seeing tour from the water. We even see dolphins in the channel as we pass Comino.

Hiking to Ramla Beach

From Mgarr we head straight to the San Blas Cove. The streets through the villages in Gozo are so small. I am glad that I am not driving this time. As we get out of the car we are greeted by the blue sky, the rolling green hills and the blue sea stretching out in front of us. It looks like a painting.

We follow the steep path down to the waterline. Since it is still April it is all very quiet. We only stay for a short moment before we head up the hill on the other side. In Malta, when it says “uphill” it usually means quite steep. We are out of breath and sweaty by the time we reach the top. Lizards are running in different directions, flowers are blooming. It is such a wonderful spring day.

As we get closer to the Tal-Mixta Cave the rental cars parked along the street are a clear sign that this is a popular tourist spot. I have been here a few times and the view never gets old. Stepping through the small entrance in the back and then the orange Ramla Beach, the blue sea and the green hills come into view. All framed by the dark rim of the cave. What a view.

We hike the path down to the bay and find a spot along the beach. Perfect time for a break, a swim and a snack. The water is still cold, but it is so refreshing and clear. We are so happy that we decided to come to Gozo today.

Victoria

After lunch in our favourite pizza place we walk up to the Citadella to enjoy the 360° views of the island. Walking on top of the wall, we can see the sea in all directions. I love coming up here, it always feels like a step back in time.

With an ice cream in our hand we continue our walk through the Old Town. The winding alleys are full of beautiful houses. The colours of the balconies and doors shine in the sunlight. The different door knockers add local charm and make for perfect photo opportunities.

Cliff Walk

To end our wonderful trip to Gozo, we head out to Mgarr ix-Xini. From here we follow the coastline all the way to the harbour in Mgarr. The view over to Comino and Malta is so pretty. The soft afternoon light bathes everything in a golden light. What a view.

The coastal path winds along through low shrubs and over rocks. It is the perfect ending to our day. We even get the timing right with our ferry back. It is quite busy at the terminal and we are happy that we bought our tickets already in advance.

On the ferry back we sink back into the seats, close our eyes with a smile on our faces and think back on the beautiful day we have had…

Another lovely hike in Malta is from Marsaxlokk to Marsaskala (or vice versa).

Der Beitrag A Day Trip to Gozo erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

What a delight to travel for a week through Tuscany… delicious food, cute towns, good friends and a lot of sunshine… Our stops include Pisa, San Gimignano, Siena, Montepulciano, Florence and a vineyard near Vinci.

Pisa

Our little trip starts in Pisa. It is one of the few airports I know from which you can easily walk into the city centre. Unfortunately, it starts to rain halfway there. We make our way a little further under the portico at the train station and then have an espresso. It is pouring heavily. But luckily the sun comes out soon and we walk through the pedestrian zone to the Arno and the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

It is my first time here and I am really looking forward to seeing the Leaning Tower. The area is full of tourists and it is fun to watch them taking photos and trying out their poses. It has gotten pretty warm in the sun by now and we buy ourselves an ice cream as we slowly make our way back to the train station.

San Gimignano

The journey to San Gimignano takes two hours. There is a bit of a delay, but luckily we are on holiday and have time. The narrow road winds up and down the hills. Vineyards, cypresses, olives… everything glows green in the sun. And then San Gimignano appears in the distance. The town sits on a ridge and looks so beautiful with the towers rising up to the sky.

We explore the place a bit in the evening light and immediately fall in love with the brick houses, the nice shops, the narrow alleys… of course there are a lot of people around, but in the mornings and evenings, when the day tourists are not yet or no longer there, it is quieter. After an aperitivo, we enjoy dinner on the terrace of a nice restaurant.

The town is not very big and can be explored quickly. We particularly like the views of the countryside.  Malta is so brown at the end of summer; we enjoy the rolling green hills, the trees, the vineyards… We walk a little way out of San Gimignano and enjoy the silence. What a wonderful day… A glass of wine and pizza to finish, what more could you want…

Siena

The bus ride through the pretty Tuscan countryside goes by quickly. Shortly before we get off the bus in Siena, we get a quick glance at the impressive black and white striped cathedral and the tower of the Palazzo Pubblico. What a first impression.

The sun is shining from the blue sky, it is warm and tourists are strolling around the alleys of the old town. At the large Piazza del Campo we sit in the shade and look for a panino for lunch. We find one just around the corner and the long queue indicates a good choice. Sandwiches are called schiacciatte here and are very tasty. We keep on finding new flavour combinations.

The streets go up and down in Siena. We walk to the Santo Domenico church again and marvel at the view of the Old Town. The cathedral sits imposingly on the hill and towers over the surrounding houses.  I really like the brown and orange brick houses. Pine trees tower over the houses like umbrellas. We like the facade of the cathedral. Lions and horses decorate the portal. Countless figures stand along the roof and above the portals. In the morning, the city is just waking up and we sit for a while opposite the entrance and take in the church. We enjoy strolling and letting ourselves drift.

One evening we eat a pizza right on the central square. The blue hour is the perfect backdrop for a very nice evening. In the boarding line in Malta, an Italian woman said that she was looking forward to a really good Italian pizza. We can only agree.

Montepulciano

After two nights in Siena, we move on to Montepulciano. We take the train to Buonconvento and then change to the bus. On the way to San Gimignano, we were lucky with the announced strike. The strike only lasted a few hours and we always got to our destination early.  Montepulciano is smaller again and is located in the beautiful Tuscan countryside. The views from the terraces are wonderful. We buy a sandwich and sit in the shade of a pine tree at one of these vantage points. The town stretches up the hill and the streets are sometimes quite steep. Our accommodation is at the lower end of the old town and every morning begins with a climb. An espresso and cornetto with pistachio filling is just right.

An aperitivo with a view over the Tuscan hills in the evening sun is simply part of the experience here. Mmm…Montepulciano wine… We cannot understand all the people who order Aperol Spritz here when the wine is so good.

On Tuesday we set off on a short hike around Montepulciano. At the beginning we go downhill along olive groves. We soon leave the noises of the town behind us and enjoy the silence. We walk along the slope in the shade of trees. Across the vineyards we have a wonderful view of Montepulciano. The town towers high above us on the slope. The blue grapes hang thick and full. It can’t be long until the grape harvest. We don’t meet any people, just lizards and grasshoppers. The sun is shining and it’s wonderful. What a beautiful day. At the Tempio di San Biagio we meet civilization again. Tour buses wait in the shade of the cypresses. We take a short break in the shade of the church before a steep path leads us back through a gate in the city wall to Montepulciano.

Florence

There are so many people… already on the train heading towards Florence we feel the difference. It is almost a bit overwhelming after the days in the smaller towns. It takes us a moment to get used to it again.

In the evening we take the bus from our accommodation to the city centre and walk along the Arno and enjoy the views. The Ponte Vecchio is full of people and from outside the yellow elements shine in the evening sun. We sit a little further with a view of the bridge and treat ourselves to an aperitivo. Tonight we are having pizza again. We have taken full advantage of the delicious food this holiday.

After a bit of morning rain we stroll a little away from the Duomo and the streets are significantly emptier. There are many nice restaurants and shops. We do some window shopping and let ourselves be guided by the beautiful streets.

Around the Duomo there is a lot going on. The stonework is so beautiful. The black and white stones… the rosé ornaments… every time we walk past here I fall in love with a different angle of the building.

In the evening we happen to eat in a restaurant with a wine window. You can order a glass of wine or Aperol through a small window in the wall of the house and have it handed out a short time later. We observe a few people stopping by and ordering their drink while we are having dinner inside.

On Friday we set off to the vineyard near Vinci where friends celebrate their wedding anniversary. This weekend is the reason why we chose to go to Tuscany for our holiday and we truly enjoyed every part of it.

Der Beitrag A Tuscan Holiday erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

In the summer it can be so nice to go on a European short-haul tour. The sun is shining, passengers are in a holiday mood and we have the mornings off before work.

Cycling Through Amsterdam

Sunday morning in Amsterdam and the sun is shining as I open the curtains. I feel energised and make use of the free bicycle rental at the hotel. First, I ride through the park and enjoy the cool, crisp air already hinting at autumn. There are only a few people around and I feel quite energetic as I turn towards the city centre.

The city is still pretty quiet at this hour. I enjoy cycling along the bike paths and cobblestone streets. The canals still lie quietly half in the sun, half in the shade. Whenever I can, I choose to cycle in the warming sun. Flowers are spilling out of their pots, bicycles line the streets and I could admire the cute houses all day long.

Today I am meeting a friend for brunch and it is so lovely to catch up. I certainly miss lots of things being away so much, but then sometimes it is so beautiful to meet a friend somewhere in the world.

Cycling through Amsterdam is a lovely pastime. I enjoy the way back just as much. Now there are a lot more people on the streets and I love being part of the cycling mass. Tourists mingle with locals basking in the sunshine. I wish I could stay longer. It is such a beautiful day.

A Brunch in Tirana

It is hot today as I step out of the hotel. I walk a little along the canal under shaded trees and enjoy the hustle and bustle of the city. Fruit vendors, bakeries; it all smells so lovely and poses a nice contrast to the exhaust fumes and honking. Today I do not have a lot of time nor  enough energy to sightsee and enjoy everything that this city has to offer. But I have been here before, so I do not mind taking it easy today.

In a quiet side street I find a small café with a second hand shop attached. I enjoy my breakfast sitting on the terrace surrounded by trees. I could almost forget that I am in a capital city.

City View in Lisbon

Today in Lisbon I do not have a lot of time either. The weather is so inviting, though, that I simply have to walk a little to the closest Miradoro. On the way I pass beautifully tiled houses. The blues, greens and yellows shine in the morning sunlight. At the viewpoint I sit for a bit under the shade of the trees. The red roofs stretch all the way to the castle on the other side and to the sea. It is so beautiful.

How lovely it would be to have the whole day here. But I will not be greedy, this is already quite something. On the way back to the hotel I stop at a café, because I cannot leave Lisbon without a pasteis de nata.

Even only a few hours of Portuguese sunshine give me such motivation for the work day. It is so beautiful to be able to think back on the colourful houses during the day. It puts an instant smile on my face.

Der Beitrag Summer in Amsterdam, Tirana & Lisbon erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

18 years ago the three of us had met in Ecuador while volunteering. Now we are finally meeting up on the Isle of Skye in Scotland.

Edinburgh

Hail greets me as I exit the arrivals hall at the airport. But by the time I reach the city centre the sun has come out and that maybe gives a good description of Scottish weather in April. I am very glad for the dry walk to our hotel with my suitcase.

Edinburgh is such a beautiful city with its view over to the castle, the Old Town, the majestic stone houses and the little alleyways. I have a few hours to walk around and nothing fights jet lag as well as moving around and admiring the scenery. There are quite a few tourists on the streets, but I do not mind really. It rains on and off and when it finally stops and I meet my friend Kara, we can enjoy a nice evening walk through the city. We chat through dinner as if we had just met yesterday. I guess, keeping up our friendship via email did work wonderfully.

Isle of Skye

The train ride up to Inverness offers a nice introduction to the Highlands. The vast landscape is dotted with small towns and villages, some lochs and the snowy hills of the Cairngorms National Park.

By the time we reach Inverness and meet our last friend to complete the trio the sun is shining. We take the scenic route over to the island via Loch Ness and the Glenelg ferry. I love the small roads snaking through the impressive landscape. The hills are still mostly brown, but the trees are turning green and spring is lying in the air. We talk during our drive and stop after the ferry to walk along the Kyle Rhea and observe the seals swimming in the canal.

Adele’s little cottage lies in a tranquil cove. The view over the sea and the hills is so beautiful. Birds are singing and I cannot believe my eyes when I lift the curtain the next day and see sunshine and blue skies. Already it has been such a lovely Scottish experience and I can feel it only getting better and better.

Blà Bheinn

Today we want to hike up the tallest mountain on the Isle of Skye. Blà Bheinn is 970 metres high and not far for us to drive.

The wind is freezing as we start on the small trail up the hill. We follow a small stream and pass a few hikers on the way. The views over the brown and green hills towards the blue sea are so beautiful.

On a small plateau we find a wind protected space behind a boulder for our lunch break. We have two options from here, to go up to Blà Bheinn to the right or up the slightly smaller peak to the left. We debate the pros and cons for a bit and then decide to go up Blà Bheinn.

From here the path takes us up, up, up the hill. We scramble up through a gulley using our hands and love it, firmly putting the thought of how we go down again out of our heads.

Already before reaching the top we can see over to the other side and admire the view further north. From the top, the 360° degree view takes our breath away. The freezing wind is blowing strongly so that we take a few photos, admire the view and then start the slow hike down again.

The clouds add a bit of drama to the view and on our decent, the sun comes out again. The loose rubble is actually grippier than I thought it would be and also the climbing sections work pretty well.

Portree

After yesterday’s long hike we opt for a relaxing day with a walk through a forest restoration project outside of Broadford, a lunch at the Old Inn, a walk through Portree and a boat ride to see the eagles and seals in the bay.

We talk a lot, exchange lots of things that have happened in the last 18 years and in general have a wonderful time together. The landscape is so beautiful. We frequently stop and admire the view. The sun is shining and while it is quite cold, we feel so lucky with the weather.

Portree is a quaint little town and the colourful harbour houses are especially charming. The boat tour takes us to a seal colony, we spot the big white-tailed eagles in their nest and also a golden Eagle. Lots of seagulls and loons pass our way and we even spot two puffins fishing in the sea.

Coastal Hike

It is another one of those blue days. Today we want to take the ferry from Elgol to Loch Coruisk and then hike back from there via the infamous Bad Step.

On the ferry ride we stop in the small bay before the Bad Step and look up the smooth rock with the small fault line across. A little further a group of seals lies on the rocks of a little island. They look lazily about themselves and are not very disturbed by our passing by.

And then we reach Loch Coruisk and get off the boat to start our hike. The sea is glittering in the sun and we cross the little stream over rocks. Not far from the starting point, we have our lunch break on the warm volcanic rocks and cannot get enough of the view. What a day….

At a small beach we just have to test the water. The ferryman told us earlier that the sea is about 6 degrees cold. It is quite freezing, but also feels so good to have the sand between our toes. The white sandy beach and the turquoise water look very inviting. The water temperature, however, is not. It is freezing and we are only able to be in the water for a very short time.

From here the Bad Step is not far. We take it easy across the rock and make it safely to the other side one small step at a time. It feels as dramatic as it looks in the photos. And we are quite happy to have made it without problems.

The coastal path slopes up and down the hill. Sometimes the long bushes have wool hanging from them. The sheep use this trail as well. Some sections are very muddy and we step from stone to stone. This winter and spring was very wet, and Adele informs us that it had only stopped raining the week before. It all adds to the adventure, though.

Before we reach the Camasunary Bothy we have to cross a river and since I only have lower hiking shoes, I opt for wading through barefoot. I find a beautiful shell and I am happy to make it safely across without slipping on the mossy pebbles.

While we have a break a small hail storm passes. But the sun comes out again soon and we continue along the coast. The views of the other side and towards Elgol are amazing. Sheep are grazing in the distance. The blue sea shimmers once more in the sunshine. We are so happy and cannot stop telling each other what a beautiful day this is.

Old Man of Storr & the Fairy Pools

Today we start with a lazy breakfast and then head out. We stroll around Portree and after lunch we continue on the road to the north. The landscape is so beautiful, the water is glistening in the sunshine, the green grass shines against the black rocks. In the distance we can already spot the Old Man of Storr. We stop at the parking lot and continue on foot up the hill. At first, the path is wide and steep and then continues via steps up the hillside.

The rock formations are beautiful. The green moss contrasts against the black stone and everything shines in the sun as we walk all the way up to one of the view points. What a wonderful day. We cannot believe our luck with the weather this week. It is April in Scotland, after all.

On the way back home, we stop at the Fairy Pools. There are passing zones on the narrow roads to make it easier for traffic. We meet a lot of cars on the way there and hope that by late afternoon we will not encounter too many tourists at one of the main attractions of the island. But it is still very busy and we continue on a bit and stop by some other pools that look very similar to the famous Fairy Pools. The sun is beginning to disappear behind the mountains, the sky is slowly turning pink and the soft trickling of the water gives it a magical atmosphere. We walk a little along the pools and admire the landscape.

Plockton & Stirling

What a beautiful week we have spent together. We could not have imagined it in our wildest dreams to turn out this wonderful. And today we have to say goodbye again.

All three of us drive to Plockton for breakfast and a stroll along the village before Kara and I take the train back to Inverness. There, we say goodbye and I continue on to Stirling and the airport of Edinburgh by myself.  As I walk through Stirling in the evening, I have time to reflect on all the wonderful things that have happened this week: the adventures, the sunshine, the friendship… and I smile…

Der Beitrag A Friends Reunion on the Isle of Skye erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

A family visit brought us to Spain this summer. It has been 15 years since my last visit to Andalucía. I was an Erasmus student in Barcelona back then and travelled south over the Christmas holidays.

The contrast to then could not be bigger. Back then, I stepped off the night train into the cold and crisp morning air. A cold wind came down from the snowy mountains of the Sierra Nevada. Today, we are greeted by 37 degrees as we get off the bus from Malaga airport.

Discovering the Albaicín

In the evening we are walking through the Albaicín. Its white houses glow in the evening sun. Slowly the temperatures drop and more and more people venture outside. The cobbled streets fan out like a labyrinth. We enjoy just drifting along and seeing where our feet take us. There are quite a number of viewpoints of the Alhambra and we cannot get enough of the red buildings. The Sierra Nevada towers in the background of the UNESCO world heritage sight, albeit without the snow.

Strolling around the City Centre

Walking around the city centre, we drift along the small streets and alleys. The Alcaiceria, the Mercado de Artesanía mainly sells souvenirs now. We still like to wander through and have a look around.

The cathedral of Granada is majestic. I do not know if I find the view up from the hill more impressive or standing in front of her. Both views show off the grand scale of the building. The catholic kings really wanted to set a sign after the successful Reconquista. It is fun to stroll around the city centre and hop from shade to shade with an ice cream in our hands. It is really hot at the beginning of July in the South of Spain. But we are enjoying ourselves and spending lots of time with our family.

Visiting the Alhambra

The Alhambra with her intricately beautiful mosaics and lush gardens was what drew me to Andalucía in the first place. I ended up visiting the monument with a Vietnamese girl from my hostel and we spent almost the whole day in the grounds visiting the different parts. The charm in winter was, of course, that there were not many people. The same cannot be said for the beginning of July. The grounds are swarming with people, but still we take our time and find quiet spots in all the hustle. The charm of the Alhambra, the magical atmosphere touches us right away. The fragrant roses in the garden exude their sweet perfume. Pines, cypresses and olive trees give shade in the small courtyard gardens where water fountains refresh the air and add their soft music to the spectacle.

The mosaics in the Nazaríes Palace are as beautiful as I remember them. My favourite one is the one with the interlacing stars. There are so many different rooms. Some are small, others big. Some are very simple and others very ornately decorated. I could spend hours here soaking up the atmosphere. It feels so historically rich and amazingly peaceful.

On my first visit, the Lion Fountain was under reconstruction and not in its usual space. This time, the fountain is standing proudly in the middle of the marble courtyard. The water running in the floor has a nice cooling effect, which is very welcome on this hot summer evening.

The Alcazaba Palace offers wonderful views of the Albaicín quarter. The cluster of white houses across the valley looks amazing. In the distance a thunderstorm is brewing, however, luckily, it does not come our way.

We continue our walk through the different areas of the Alhambra grounds. The Palace Carlos V we only visit briefly as they are in the process of setting everything up for a concert. As it gets later, the evening light sets the reddish towers aglow. We slowly walk through the gardens towards the summer palace Generalife and its lush gardens and water basins.

The crowds are thinning and we enjoy the silence of this palace. The views over to the rest of the Alhambra and the city are so beautiful. Within the courtyards, the water fountains are cooling the air and the basins mirror the reflections of the buildings. What wonderful architectural design.

After exiting the Alhambra, we cross the valley to the Albaicín and stop for dinner at a nice restaurant. By now, we have gotten to know some of the small alleyways already and orientation has become easier. We love this area and could wander around the small streets for a long time. The sky is slowly turning to darkness and after dinner we walk around a bit more. It feels like a luxury to stay at the outskirts of the quarter.

This was a short, but very sweet visit to the South of Spain. We will definitely return and possibly visit even more of beautiful Andalucía.

Thank you for having us…

Der Beitrag Revisiting the Alhambra erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Tbilisi

We start our trip in the capital of Georgia, in Tbilisi and come back a few times on our travels across the country.

On our first walk up and down the steep cobblestone streets in the Betlemi Historic Quarter we fall in love with the city’s charm. That love only deepens once we have experienced a little its restaurant and food culture. A glass of wine, some delicious food, some live music to accompany our evening…

The Narikala Fortress resides up above the old town. Even though it is raining as we walk up there, the mist and low hanging clouds add to the charm. The roofs of the numerous churches shine in the rain as we huddle under our umbrella. We are not fazed by the rain and our shoes slowly getting wet and continue to discover more of this charming city. The deep red wine paired with the hot potato wedges taste especially good in this weather.

Some of the churches are sitting below the current street level and attest to their age. I cover my hair as I enter and the rich darkness takes us. Light falls through the tall windows and casts a golden light on the icons. The smell of incense lies heavily on the air and the little wax candles add to the overall calm and revered atmosphere. You can feel that churches are an old and important institution in this country.

The biggest church on the other side of the Kura River is the Georgian-Orthodox Holy Trinity or Sameba Cathedral. Its golden cupolas are visible from afar. The majestic church is one of the biggest in the world and quite a sight. It is Sunday morning as we pass by. The doors are open while mass is being held inside and the singing can be heard all over the main square in front.

We continue our walk to Fabrika. The former Soviet sewing factory has been turned into a cultural space. We love the atmosphere there and spend quite a bit of time in the courtyard soaking up some sunshine, having lunch, admiring the exhibitions and walking through the handicraft fair. Tbilisi is filled with interesting places. We are not getting tired of exploring this city.

The old town has a lot of beautiful corners, and we quickly fall in love with the old houses and their intricately carved wooden balconies. Some are restored, and others are barely still standing. Small alleys wind up the hill. There is always something to discover around the next corner.

Mtskheta

The weather is still a bit grey and rainy, but we are making the most of it. The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral in the city centre has a fortified wall around it and is beautiful inside. I like the mystique light filtering through the windows in the tall tower, the smell of incense burning and the warm glow of the thin candles illuminating the golden icons. Only the group of school children breaks a bit the peaceful atmosphere.

The Jvari Monastery looms high on the hill across the river. Normally, we would drive up there and enjoy the view, but passing clouds hide the church every once in a while and so we decide against it. We opt for walking a little along the river, but soon have to really search for the path between all the puddles. It must have rained a lot here.

What best to do on a rainy evening but to sit in a nice restaurant with a glass of delicious Georgian wine, some good food and a view of the cathedral. We talk a lot and feel very cosy as the rain is falling outside. Life can be so sweet.

Kutaisi

The small city is a stop on our way to Svanetia, but we really come to like our choice. The main centre is very walkable and when we first arrive we spend the whole afternoon discovering this charming place. There are a lot of cafés and restaurants, parks and a church a little up the hill with a nice view over the city and its surrounding area. In the evening with enjoy delicious food in a beautiful restaurant with live music. A group of four men sing traditional Georgian songs and everyone listens in awe.

We cannot communicate much with the lady of our Guest House, but she organises us a driver and we set out to the Motsameta and Gelati monastery near Kutaisi. The Motsameta monastery lies high above the Tskaltsitela River in the middle of a forest. It feels lovely to get out of the city and we enjoy the green vista.

We continue our little excursion to the historically important Gelati monastery. It was founded in 1106 as one of the first monasteries of Georgia and also served as a centre for science and education. The views over the Tskaltsitela valley are beautiful and today marks the end of the rain on this holiday.

Mestia

We initially debated whether a trip to the far Svanetia would be a good idea. We ended up being so happy that we went.

The long drive up from Zugdidi is already part of the adventure. With no exact information of the departure of the Marshrutka, we do not really know what to expect. At our Guest House we get the information 8 or 9 o’clock and when we asked at the bus stop the day before they tell us 10 o’clock. We end up waiting for quite some time before the driver shows up at 9am. Sometimes, it takes a while when the driver wants to wait for more passengers. And that’s exactly what happens. After some negotiations it is almost 10 o`clock and we are finally on our way.

Mestia and the surrounding villages are famous for their fortress towers. They are dotted all over the villages. Each family had such a tower as part of their farm. Access was only via a ladder and the tower served as protection from attacks and blood feuds.

The snowy mountains are the perfect backdrop for our hike around the Mestia valley. It is still spring up here. The apple and cherry trees are in full bloom, butterflies are everywhere. For most of our walk uphill, we share the path with a small river. The snow is melting high on up in the Caucasus Mountains. The valley of Mestia with its small airport stretches out below us. We have a lunch break at the ruins of a Soviet sport centre. Now, only cows graze between the abandoned structures. The trail continues through light forests and over green meadows. Small Alpine flowers add a bit of colour to the landscape. On the way back we have to cross a gurgling river cascading down the hill. The wood planks across the water are slippery and we try to be very careful so no one falls in. The noise of the water drowns out all the other sounds and the sunlight filters through the fresh green leaves. What a beautiful day today. The stone towers get taller and taller as we get closer to Mestia. It is so interesting to see the old buildings. I wonder what life must have been like here…

Telavi

Last but not least, we visit the wine region of Georgia. The country advertises itself as the oldest wine producing country in the world. So far we have liked the wines a lot, especially the red wines. Already the drive to Telavi is beautiful and leads us through the agricultural areas. Upon our arrival we have trouble finding our Guest House at first. We have had the problem before that the properties did not have signs and we had to ask around. Everyone is always helpful and so it usually never took long for us to find it. The alphabet is beautiful, but also impossible to read for foreigners.

The centre of Telavi is not big, but the old cobbled street with wooden houses and their carved balconies is beautiful. The old church has snapdragon flowers growing out of its roof. Along the main street there are quite a few buildings from Soviet times.

For dinner, we find a small restaurant and sit in their garden. The view over the valley is beautiful as the sun slowly sets. The red wine is really good and we enjoy this lengthy dinner. Georgia was a proper food holiday.

Der Beitrag A Georgian Holiday erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

We have wanted to visit our small sister island to the north ever since we moved to Malta. As it takes us a bit to cross the island and take the ferry over, we plan to stay for two nights and make the most of it. The April sunshine is calling us as we set out on this little staycation.

Victoria

First stop: Pastizzi shop. After our bus-ferry-bus trip to Victoria, we are hungry and need some flaky pastry deliciousness before we head on with our explorations of Victoria. Everything seems a little smaller compared to the bigger island of Malta. We love it right from the start…

The view from the old Cittadella in Victoria is beautiful in all directions. The small cubic houses crouch together beneath us, a little further a village perks high up on the hill, overlooking the green valley and we can see the sea on several sides. The wind is almost blowing us away, but the 360°-view is stunning.

We return later in the evening shortly before they close the citadel in order to see the lights. The view is almost more spectacular than during the day. The golden street lights illuminate the blue night sky and it looks like a painting straight out of a fairy-tale.

Walking through the narrow alleys of Victoria is a bit like meandering through a maze. Sometimes we end up in a beautiful cul-de-sac filled with flower pots, a bench, and two or three colourful doors belonging to the limestone town houses. The cries of teens playing football echo along the streets.

Somehow we end up in the Pjazza and marvel at the liveliness of the square in the afternoon. There are quite a bit of tourist groups on a day visit of Gozo. However, they disappear in the evening and when we return for an aperitivo there are only few people left in the restaurants around the little square. It feels very homely and quiet. We could not possibly love our trip to Gozo any more.

Lush green valleys & small villages

On our first day, we walk to the small central bus station and take a bus in direction of the Ta’Pinu Basilica. As we get off the bus, we can already see the impressive church from afar. It is standing between fields and across a small valley from the village of Gharb. We have a look inside the Roman-Catholic shrine, which is an important pilgrimage site for Maltese and then we continue on to Gharb.

The yellow limestone is shining in the afternoon sun. The streets are deserted and we are the only people walking along the main road towards the bus stop. We love the peace and quiet as we stroll down the street. There are so many pretty corners, so many beautiful balconies and doors, plants growing everywhere. Some houses are very well taken care of; others seem uninhabited and falling into disrepair. We love the mix of both.

The coast is never far away

The salt pans of Marsalforn are another attraction of Gozo. We take the bus to Zebbug and enjoy the view over the wild ocean. Today is another windy day. We follow the steep road down to the coast and see the first salt pans. They are around 350 years old and still in use today. Gozo Salt is a popular souvenir and can be found for sale all over Malta. We follow the coastline to the beach town of Marsalforn. At the end of April everything is still a bit sleepy, but in summer it must get very busy. Today, the biggest attraction is the waves crashing onto the promenade. Luckily, we manage to pass without getting wet. All we need is a pastizzi as we wait for the bus taking us across the island to the Southern part.

The Ta’Cenc cliffs are on the South coast of Gozo and are quite impressive. We only go on a short walk, because the wind along the cliff’s edge is quite strong. Still, even the short walk gives us a nice impression of the cliffs. The rock formations look like pancake layers. Flowers crouch low between stones, seeking protection from the wind. An ocellated skink crosses our path. They look like a mix between a lizard and a snake and are quite common on the islands here. Before heading back to Victoria, we sit for quite a while on a wind-protected bench and chat.

Dwejra Bay

Dwejra Bay is ideal for sunsets and so we head there in the afternoon. We exit the bus up on the hill and slowly walk down towards the bay. Fields of wheat stretch to our left and right. Red poppies and yellow chrysanthemums grow along the limestone walls. The afternoon sun adds a warm glow to our surroundings. The golden light and the soft swishing of the wheat fields accompany us all the way down to the sea.

We have dreamt of an ice cream and so this is our first stop when we reach the bay. Mmhhh… this is what good holidays are made off.

We walk over to Fungus Rock and find a protected spot from the wind. Here we sit for quite a while and enjoy the scenery. A few boats anchor in the small bay. Fungus Rock serves as a wavebreaker for them. Even though the azure window collapsed in a storm in 2017, the coast line is still very dramatic. The cliffs are impressive and water and wind have carved out pools and mushroom-like formations out of the coastline.

To the other side of the Bay, there is a small lake with a cave connection to the open sea. Rental boats dot the coastline. But it is still early in the tourist season, so most boat houses are closed.

The evening is wonderful. The sun slowly drops and the golden light reflects in the tidal pools. We could stay here forever and admire the changing light. However, with the sun setting it also gets colder and 5 minutes before the actual sunset we have to take the last bus back to Victoria.

Ramla Beach

Ramla Beach is a reddish sand beach and one of the only beaches I know with the statue of a saint on its shores. The half-moon stretches in front of us and we walk a little to the side to escape the crowded area. Here it is quieter and only the sound of the waves is audible. We sit and talk; we eat some strawberries and simply enjoy the warm sunshine.

The colours are marvellous today. The red sand, the impressively blue sea, the green hills… Oh, how I wish the water was warmer and I could go for a swim. It looks so inviting. I guess we have to come back in autumn and jump in then.

After our break in the sand, we tackle the short walk up to the Tal-Mixta cave. The small path leads through tree mallow and small shrubs.  Cactuses line the way, as we scramble up the rocks to the cave. The view from up here is spectacular. We do not get tired of these colours. Everything glows in blue, green, yellow and red… Of course, it is quite busy here, but the moment we walk out of the cave on top and follow a small path back to the beach, we lose the crowds.

As we get back to the beach, we take of our shoes and walk along the surf. By now, it has gotten quite warm and we gladly carry our jackets. The day is filled with the promise of summer.

We had such a lovely time in Gozo. The small island is perfect for a quiet get-away: small villages, stunning coastline, a beautiful capital… We are already thinking of when we can visit Gozo again.

Der Beitrag An Anniversary Trip to Gozo erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.

Hello Kara,

I have been writing an email to you which I need to finish, but today’s lovely hike calls for a special sunshine filled email.

I have come back from Hong Kong yesterday and so today we wanted to make use of the lovely weather. Breakfast on the terrace is a perfect way to start into the day. The sunshine, the view of the blue sea, our bay, the container ships, the village of Birzebbuga,  the green valley…. The wind was blowing strongly and so we decided against a bike ride and opted for a hike.

The coast from here to Marsaskala is so beautiful. We have taken the bikes here quite often and today we want to stay even closer to the coast line and walk.

The 20 minutes’ walk to Marsaxlokk we do quite often. The spring flowers are slowly withering, but the yellow wild chrysanthemums, red poppies, pink French honeysuckle, lemon yellow buttercups, and rose coloured tree mallow and many more still bloom. The farmers have started mowing the first fields. The air is filled with the smell of hay and the wheat fields are gently swaying in the wind.

In the lovely little fishing village of Marsaxlokk we buy pastizzi (flacky pastries filled with ricotta cheese) for lunch later and some date biscuits. The village is famous for the many luzzu (traditional colourful fishing boats).

From here we walk up through lovely fields and over to St. Peter’s Pool. The overhanging edge is good for jumping into the sea. It is not very high, but popular among tourists and locals. We stop here for a second and wish we had brought our bathing things because it has gotten hot in the sun and a refreshing jump could have been nice. Next time.

We continue along the coastline. The whitish/yellow limestone in the water lets the shallow bay shine turquoise in the sun. The colours are stunning and we are amazed of the beauty every time we are here. Sparrows are chirping, lizards are darting into the bushes as we pass. We meet few people. I even spot a snake slithering away between the rocks. Malta has four types of snakes, but only one is poisonous and only for the small animals it hunts.

We pass through chrysanthemum fields on a narrow path. The St. Thomas Cliffs have a little window in them and a few boats anchor in the bay. At one point the cliff is not quite as steep and inaccessible and there is a small path leading down to the water. For sure, we need to come here in the summer for swimming.

After a little while Marsaskala comes into view. We stop again at a small rocky beach. It was sunnier and warmer than we anticipated and we’re slowly running low on water. But what a day… From here it is not far anymore to the centre of the town and the bus stop. Sitting down for a moment while waiting for the bus is actually quite nice.

At home we have a big glass of icy water and some ice cream and strawberries. Strawberries are currently in season on the island and they’re so delicious. We buy them from the small local veggie trucks every other day.

Now it’s half past six and we’re sitting on the bus to Gzira. Tonight we’re going out for dinner. Afterwards we like to walk back towards Valletta along the coast. Ta’ Xbiex has beautiful villas and the marina of Marsa harbours some big sail boats and yachts. The illuminated churches of Valletta shine against the night sky. We love to walk here: we talk, we have a look around and we enjoy every minute of the evening.

I hope this email and the photos bring a bit of Mediterranean warmth to your house.

Sending you lots of love and sunshine,

Susanne

Der Beitrag A Spring Hike in Malta erschien zuerst auf Where in the world is... Susanne?.