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Hiking in the Moroccan Atlas Mountains

The sun is shining, the first almond blossoms are out and a little stream is running next to our path. We have been walking for a few hours and we are still finding our rhythm. For the next six days we will be hiking around Imlil and we are really looking forward to it. The high peaks of the Atlas Mountains are still covered in snow and serve as an impressive backdrop. Small villages dot the valley, where rivers are running and the first sign of the spring‘s green is visible.

But let’s start at the beginning:

We arrived in Morocco a day late due to a strike, but happy that everything went well. In Casablanca, we board the train and enjoy the view. We stay in Marrakech by evening and are simply happy that everything went so well today. We stroll through the alleys and enjoy the warmth of the last rays of sunshine, peer into the windows of the small shops, and look for a restaurant.

The Mountains Are Calling…

On Wednesday, we meet up with our friends at the parking lot. Our driver takes us up into the mountains to Imlil. For the next six days, we will hike through the Atlas Mountains. The snow-capped Mount Toubkal looms before us at 4,176 meters.

In Imlil, we meet our guide and three other men who are leading our three mules. What a luxury not to have to carry our backpacks.

Leaving Imlil, we walk steadily uphill until we reach a pass. Here we meet the mules and take a lunch break. What a wonderful place. The sun is shining, the red mountains around us, the blue sky… We are given a proper meal cooked on a gas stove. How nice to meet again after last year’s unforgettable week on the Isle of Skye.

Then we continue along the slope. Very little grows up here. A few prickly little bushes and the occasional old, gnarled juniper tree. Walnut and almond trees grow in the valleys, along with all sorts of other things the people in the villages grow. Water flows here, and it’s greener.

On we walk…

On the second and third days, we sleep in very basic accommodations. A mattress on the floor and simple blankets. We sleep huddled together under three blankets with all our clothes on. There is always a warm shower, though, and a wood-burning stove in the dining area.

The remote villages seem very poor and simple. The traces of the earthquake a few years ago are still clearly visible. Some houses have collapsed, and families are still living in tents. Few women are to be seen; occasionally, a door opens slightly as we walk past, and a face peeks out.

It is quite cold in the evenings and at night. But during the day, in the sun, we walk in T-shirts. Especially when the mountain climb is steep, as it was on the second day. Leaving the village, we hike up to 2400m. We feel the altitude and need a break every now and then. Occasionally goats and their shepherds pass us. The sounds of the little goats calling for their mothers are following us for quite a while.

On the third day, we even climb to 2700m. Every day, we cross a pass into the next valley. On the fourth and fifth days, we buy orange juice at the top of the pass. A man, a donkey, a few oranges… that’s all we need. We enjoy the view and the fresh juice. We are amazed at the changing landscape. Some valleys are bare, others have a river running through, the trees and bushes lining the path…

We have three mules with us and they carry not only our luggage, but also our kitchen supplies and water. In the morning the guides surpass us at some point, so that by the time we reach our lunch spot, they are already busy preparing our food and tea. In the afternoon they usually catch up with us again at some point and we sometimes arrive at our guest house together.

Snow in March?

What weather… the sun shines every day. And when it gets darker on the third day and the clouds are rolling in, we cannot believe it when it starts to snow. We are wearing our rain jackets and the backpack covers. Up at the pass, an icy wind blows, and the flakes dance in the breeze. Further down into the valley, the snow continues, and soon the landscape is blanketed in white. It is wonderful for hiking. We enjoy it. By the time we get to the guesthouse, it has stopped.

We are well catered for in terms of food: Breakfast is usually served at 8 a.m. Later our lunch is served in a beautiful spot and consists of   rice and vegetables along with tea and fruits for dessert. What a luxury. In the afternoon, once we have reached our Guesthouse, we always enjoy some popcorn with tea and then some delicious dinner in the evening.

We are thrilled with our mules. They carry up to 150 kg up and down the mountains. At some point in the morning, they overtake us. At midday, they graze nearby and then usually overtake us again on the trail. If the trail allows, the guides ride, otherwise they walk alongside. The mules are pretty obedient to their every command, which impresses us. No need for sticks to prod them.

Marrakech

On the 6th day of hiking, after lunch, we return to Marrakech. The many people, the mopeds and scooters driving through the narrow alleys of the souqs… what a difference to the mountains…

We have a free day in Marrakech before our return flight, and we enjoy wandering through the various markets. The colours, the cats, the smells, the people… There is so much to see and take in.  In the afternoon, we drink Berber tea overlooking the large Jemma el Fna square. It is quite hot and it feels wonderful to rest a bit and enjoy the views.

In the evening, we meet for one last dinner together. We had a lot of fun together, chatting and laughing. Us three girls are glad we invited the men to join us on this hiking adventure.  

Today, after a leisurely breakfast, we head back to Germany. We really enjoyed our holiday and are looking forward to returning to our little house in Malta.

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