Over the summer my sister and I began talking about going on another multi-day hiking adventure. We have hiked in Italy in 2020 and in Spain in 2021 and loved both holidays.

The weather in November can be temperamental in Europe and we only decide at the last minute to hike from Salerno to Sorrento in six days. We are very much looking forward to hiking along the famous Amalfi coast.

Spectacular sea views

The coastal path meanders mostly high above the sea with spectacular views. The first day we find a beautiful and peaceful spot high in the hills. It is three o’clock in the afternoon, the sun is shining and the bees are buzzing around us. The sea sparkles beneath us and it is a perfect spot to rest our tired legs and enjoy a mandarin. We could stay here the rest of the day, but we still have some way to go down to the town and we can already see the sunset drawing nearer. With the change to winter time we start early on our hikes so we get to our destination around 4pm, before sunset.

The views are always beautiful. And one day, when we get caught in a bit of rain and cloud, even then the views do not disappoint. Clouds race past us and we can hear the sea crashing below us. The narrow path clings to the steep coastline. The colours of the hills are mesmerising as they appear and disappear in the clouds. When the sun comes out again, everything seems washed clean and sparkles even brighter. We zip open our rain jackets, shake off the drops from the rain covers and continue with new-found joy.

Daily hiking

It takes our legs two days to get used to continuous exercise. Every day we have our share of uphill sections and downhill sections. We love the autumnal Mediterranean forest. The yellow leaves of the chestnut trees add some beautiful colour to the views. We walk through olive groves and lemon tree plantations. Small villages sometimes have only one way streets. The locals in their small cars seem to have perfected the system of honking in front of corners and easily sneaking into alleyways or yard entrances to make way for oncoming traffic. To us it seems like a well-orchestrated game. And it adds urban adventure to our otherwise hiking days through nature. During our hiking day we meet very few people.

Ravello

On our way to Amalfi we pass through Ravello. It is a beautiful town resting high on a rock ledge overlooking the coast. The views from either side are spectacular and one classy hotel sits next to the other making the most of the scenery and the views. We slow down and soak up all the Mediterranean charm. The cobblestone alleys are so beautiful. Around every corner there is a new view, a new pastel coloured villa and a new garden to spot. We enjoy our lunch sandwich in the main square in front of the church. There is a lot going on around us. After quiet sections in the hills, we enjoy the liveliness of the town. Some boys are playing football and two cats are eagerly waiting for us to drop some prosciutto. It is warm in the sun, but not hot. We sit here for quite a while, rest our legs and soak up the atmosphere.

Amalfi

We first see Amalfi from high above. The town nestles in the narrow valley right by the sea. It feels like thousands of stairs lead down to the lively pedestrian street in the centre.

Our apartment has sea views and partial views of the town. We watch the sunset from the balcony and love to just put our feet up for a bit. The prospects of pizza and lemon ice cream push us to abandon our spot and go out and explore. When hiking we value central accommodation, more so than on other holidays. After a long hiking day it feels so good to not have to walk far anymore. We stroll around the town a bit, before we settle down for dinner.

The view as we hike out of Amalfi the next day is so beautiful. We stop while going up because of the exertion, but also because looking back is a treat. The white houses sit close to each other and spread across the hillside. The sun shines and the Mediterranean sparkles. Our legs might be a little tired walking up the hill, but the sunshine and views are giving us so much strength and joy. Ready for a new hiking day…

Sentiero degli dei

The ‘sentiero degli dei’, the path of the gods, leads from Agerola towards Positano and offers more spectacular views of the coast. At first, it is still a bit cloudy, but by midday the sun has finally pushed through. Birds are soaring above us, the silky silver sea glitters in the sunshine. Some of the higher mountains are wrapped in clouds, but the views along the coast are wonderful. We enjoy this day so much. The cliff’s edges create such spectacular views. And then Positano comes into view.

Positano

Positano lies in a wider valley. It does not feel quite as cramped as Amalfi. Once more we hike into the town from above. What a day… what views… After a shower and getting dressed in our nice clothes, we feel ready to discover a bit of the famous town. We stroll along small lanes, window shop a bit and talk about the next day.

Later we are sitting at the beach in the darkness, the moon is shining over the Mediterranean and the street lamps in our back give a golden glow to the alleys. We enjoy a restoring pizza and treat ourselves to some lemon ice cream afterwards. We are sitting outside and enjoy these relaxing hours before falling dead tired into our beds.

On we go…

During the day we mostly hike along the steep coastline. Up and down is our constant companion. Sometimes we walk over stones, and then we have to battle thick bushland. The path does not seem used a lot in sections. A few flowers are still blooming. The strawberry trees look especially beautiful with their small flower buds and bright red fruits. The Mediterranean landscape is giving its all before winter is going to hit.

We have been lucky with the weather for four days. It is November and a day of rain is to be expected. Clouds are drifting in and out. Sometimes we cannot see the sea below us and then all of a sudden the coastline reveals itself. Even after it stops raining, water keeps dripping from trees and our trousers and shoes stay wet from the overgrown path. The muddy path and rocks are slippery and we change our route a little to avoid the steeper sections and keep more to the paved roads.

The blue sky and sunshine in the afternoon are so beautiful, especially after the rain. Over one last hill and then suddenly the island of Capri lies before us. We continue our path towards it. The bay of Naples stretches in front of us. Over on the other side lie the islands of Ischia and Procida and to the right the majestic Vesuvio rises. Our apartment has a view of Capri and we admire the sunset from the warmth of our place.

Sorrento

Our last hiking day presents itself again from the best Italian sunny side. The trail goes mostly downhill, it is not as strenuous as previous days. We enjoy a restaurant lunch in a small seaside hamlet right by the beach. We take off our boots and stretch our legs sitting on rocks by the sea. This feels like a vacation day and we could just stay here for the rest of the day.

Sorrento, our final destination, is a beautiful destination. The colourful houses and pallazzi shine brightly in the afternoon sun. There are a lot of people around, but after days of hiking we like it. The small alleys of the old town are filled with souvenir shops and it is fun to walk around and browse.

The sunset with a view of the Gulf of Naples and Vesuvio is so beautiful as the sky turns pink in the fading daylight. It is such a lovely end to our trip. We find a nice little restaurant in one of the back alleys and celebrate the end of a very nice week.